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Study Guide: Dhaulagiri: Himalayan Giant

Cheat Sheet:
Dhaulagiri: Himalayan Giant Study Guide

Geography and Physical Characteristics

Dhaulagiri is the highest mountain located entirely within the borders of Nepal.

Answer: True

Explanation: Dhaulagiri is situated in Nepal and holds the distinction of being the highest mountain located exclusively within the borders of a single nation.

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Annapurna I is located immediately to the west of Dhaulagiri.

Answer: False

Explanation: Annapurna I lies approximately 34 kilometers (21 miles) east of Dhaulagiri. The Kali Gandaki River traverses the Kaligandaki Gorge between them, a feature reputed to be the world's deepest gorge.

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The summit strata of Dhaulagiri are predominantly composed of granite, analogous to the geological makeup of many other Himalayan eight-thousanders.

Answer: False

Explanation: The summit strata of Dhaulagiri, analogous to Mount Everest, consist of limestone and dolomite, indicative of formation on the ocean floor. In contrast, the summits of most other Himalayan eight-thousanders are composed of granite, originating from deep terrestrial processes.

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Dhaulagiri exhibits substantial vertical relief, ascending over 7,000 meters from the adjacent Kali Gandaki River.

Answer: True

Explanation: Dhaulagiri exhibits substantial vertical relief, ascending approximately 7,000 meters (22,970 feet) from the Kali Gandaki River, situated merely 30 kilometers to its southeast. Its South and West faces also present dramatic, precipitous ascents exceeding 4,000 meters (13,120 feet).

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In clear weather, Dhaulagiri is visible from the plains of northern Bihar and as far south as Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh, India.

Answer: True

Explanation: Under clear atmospheric conditions, Dhaulagiri is observable from the plains of northern Bihar and extends visibility as far south as Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh, India.

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The Kaligandaki Gorge, located between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I, is considered the world's deepest gorge.

Answer: True

Explanation: Annapurna I lies approximately 34 kilometers (21 miles) east of Dhaulagiri. The Kali Gandaki River traverses the Kaligandaki Gorge between them, a feature reputed to be the world's deepest gorge.

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Dhaulagiri's topographic prominence is measured relative to K2, signifying its considerable isolation within the broader Himalayan massif.

Answer: True

Explanation: Dhaulagiri's prominence parent is K2, located over 1,031 kilometers away, a unique characteristic among Nepal's eight-thousanders.

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Dhaulagiri's elevation is 8,167 meters (26,795 feet) above sea level.

Answer: True

Explanation: Dhaulagiri ranks as the seventh highest mountain globally, with an elevation of 8,167 meters (26,795 feet) above sea level.

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What is Dhaulagiri's global rank by elevation, and what is its precise altitude?

Answer: Seventh highest, 8,167 meters

Explanation: Dhaulagiri is ranked as the seventh highest mountain worldwide, with an elevation of 8,167 meters.

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Which statement most accurately characterizes the significance of Dhaulagiri's geographical location?

Answer: It is the highest mountain situated entirely within Nepal.

Explanation: Dhaulagiri holds the distinction of being the highest peak located exclusively within the territorial boundaries of Nepal.

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What is the approximate distance separating Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I, and what notable geographical feature is situated between them?

Answer: The Kali Gandaki Gorge

Explanation: Annapurna I lies approximately 34 kilometers (21 miles) east of Dhaulagiri. The Kali Gandaki River traverses the Kaligandaki Gorge between them, a feature reputed to be the world's deepest gorge.

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Which statement accurately describes Dhaulagiri's vertical relief?

Answer: It rises dramatically, over 7,000 meters from the Kali Gandaki River.

Explanation: Dhaulagiri exhibits substantial vertical relief, ascending approximately 7,000 meters (22,970 feet) from the Kali Gandaki River, situated merely 30 kilometers to its southeast. Its South and West faces also present dramatic, precipitous ascents exceeding 4,000 meters (13,120 feet).

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What characteristic renders Dhaulagiri unique among Nepal's eight-thousanders with respect to its topographic prominence?

Answer: Its prominence parent is K2, located over 1,000 km away.

Explanation: Dhaulagiri's prominence parent is K2, located over 1,031 kilometers away, a unique characteristic among Nepal's eight-thousanders.

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What are the primary geological materials comprising the summit rocks of Dhaulagiri?

Answer: Limestone and dolomite, formed in an ancient ocean.

Explanation: The summit rocks of Dhaulagiri are primarily composed of limestone and dolomite, materials indicative of an ancient marine environment, contrasting with the granite found in many other Himalayan eight-thousanders.

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What does the reference to Dhaulagiri's summit rock composition imply regarding its geological history?

Answer: The area was once submerged under an ocean.

Explanation: The occurrence of limestone and dolomite at Dhaulagiri's summit suggests formation within a marine environment, implying that the region was once submerged beneath an ocean prior to the tectonic uplift of the Himalayas.

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What is the definition of the term 'prominence parent' within the context of mountaineering and topography?

Answer: The higher mountain from which a peak's prominence is measured.

Explanation: Topographic prominence quantifies the elevation a peak ascends above its surrounding terrain. The 'prominence parent' denotes the higher mountain from which a peak's prominence is calculated, signifying its isolation or integration within a mountain system.

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Etymology and Naming

The name 'Dhaulagiri' translates from Sanskrit to 'Black Mountain'.

Answer: False

Explanation: The name 'Dhaulagiri' derives from Sanskrit, with 'dhawala' signifying 'dazzling,' 'white,' or 'beautiful,' and 'giri' meaning 'mountain.' Consequently, Dhaulagiri translates to 'White Mountain'.

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What is the etymological translation of the Sanskrit name 'Dhaulagiri'?

Answer: White Mountain

Explanation: The name 'Dhaulagiri' is derived from Sanskrit, where 'dhawala' signifies 'dazzling' or 'white,' and 'giri' denotes 'mountain,' thus translating to 'White Mountain'.

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History of Exploration and First Ascent

In the year 1858, Dhaulagiri was identified as the highest surveyed mountain globally.

Answer: False

Explanation: While Dhaulagiri was identified as the highest surveyed mountain in 1808, by 1858, Mount Everest had been identified as the highest.

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The first successful ascent of Dhaulagiri occurred on May 13, 1960.

Answer: True

Explanation: The inaugural successful ascent of Dhaulagiri was accomplished on May 13, 1960, by a collaborative Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.

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The 1950 French expedition, led by Maurice Herzog, successfully summited Dhaulagiri.

Answer: False

Explanation: The 1950 French expedition, led by Maurice Herzog, did not climb Dhaulagiri; they achieved the first ascent of Annapurna I.

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The first ascent expedition of Dhaulagiri in 1960 utilized the first prototype fixed-wing aircraft for support.

Answer: True

Explanation: The 1960 Swiss-Austrian expedition, responsible for the first ascent of Dhaulagiri, employed the first prototype fixed-wing aircraft. This aircraft established a record for the highest landing by a fixed-wing plane prior to its crash in the Hidden Valley north of the mountain.

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What distinction was Dhaulagiri initially recognized for in the early 19th century?

Answer: Being the highest mountain that had been surveyed up to that point.

Explanation: In 1808, survey computations identified Dhaulagiri as the highest mountain surveyed to that juncture. This distinction was subsequently superseded by Kangchenjunga in 1838 and Mount Everest in 1858.

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Following their unsuccessful attempt on Dhaulagiri, what significant mountaineering achievement did the 1950 French expedition accomplish?

Answer: First ascent of an 8,000-meter peak (Annapurna I)

Explanation: The 1950 French expedition, after failing to find a route on Dhaulagiri, successfully achieved the first ascent of an 8,000-meter peak, Annapurna I.

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What significant technological innovation provided support for the 1960 first ascent expedition of Dhaulagiri?

Answer: First prototype fixed-wing aircraft

Explanation: The 1960 Swiss-Austrian expedition, responsible for the first ascent of Dhaulagiri, employed the first prototype fixed-wing aircraft. This aircraft established a record for the highest landing by a fixed-wing plane prior to its crash in the Hidden Valley north of the mountain.

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Ascent History and Notable Expeditions

The Northwest Ridge is identified as the most frequently utilized route for ascending Dhaulagiri.

Answer: False

Explanation: Contrary to the statement, the Northeast Ridge is the most frequently used route for Dhaulagiri ascents, as established during the first ascent.

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Tetsuji Kawada was part of the expedition that achieved the second ascent of Dhaulagiri in 1970.

Answer: True

Explanation: The second ascent of Dhaulagiri was accomplished in 1970 by a Japanese expedition, with Tetsuji Kawada and Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa successfully reaching the summit.

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Reinhold Messner led an attempt on Dhaulagiri's South Face in 1977.

Answer: True

Explanation: Reinhold Messner led an international contingent that attempted the south face in 1977. The spring 1978 ascent signified the first instance the mountain was climbed via a route distinct from the northeast ridge (specifically, the southwest ridge), although one expedition member succumbed during this ascent.

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The first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri was completed in 1985 by Polish climbers.

Answer: True

Explanation: The inaugural winter ascent of Dhaulagiri was accomplished by Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka on January 21, 1985, following a demanding seven-week expedition.

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The Soviet mountaineers' 1988 ascent of the southwest buttress was recognized as a significant achievement.

Answer: True

Explanation: In 1988, Soviet mountaineers Yuri Moiseev and Kazbek Valiev, in collaboration with Zoltan Demján of Czechoslovakia, successfully ascended the southwest buttress. This 3,000-meter climb, characterized by arduous technical ascents, received recognition as the year's most outstanding achievement from the UIAA Expedition Commission.

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The southwest ridge of Dhaulagiri was successfully climbed for the first time in 1975.

Answer: False

Explanation: In 1975, a Japanese team endeavoring to ascend the southwest ridge of Dhaulagiri experienced a tragedy when six members, including Norio Suzuki, perished in an avalanche. The southwest ridge was first climbed in 1978.

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The fourth ascent of Dhaulagiri was completed in 1976 by an Italian expedition.

Answer: True

Explanation: The fourth ascent of Dhaulagiri was finalized in 1976 by an Italian expedition.

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The spring 1978 ascent of Dhaulagiri marked the first time the mountain was climbed via a route other than the northeast ridge.

Answer: True

Explanation: The spring 1978 ascent utilized the Southwest Ridge, marking the first time Dhaulagiri was climbed via a route other than the established Northeast Ridge.

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In 1981, a Yugoslav team established the first route on the true south face of Dhaulagiri.

Answer: True

Explanation: In 1981, a Yugoslav team pioneered the first route on the true south face of Dhaulagiri, attaining an altitude of 7,950 meters. Their alpine-style ascent was marked by severe conditions, including four days of open bivouacs and six days without sustenance prior to their descent.

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The December 1982 ascent by a Japanese team was considered a true winter ascent by calendar definition.

Answer: False

Explanation: The Japanese team captained by Jun Arima reached the summit on December 13, 1982. While not strictly winter by calendar definition, the expedition operated under a winter climbing permit, which sanctioned ascents commencing from December 1st.

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The UIAA Expedition Commission recognized the 1988 Soviet ascent of the southwest buttress as the year's most outstanding achievement.

Answer: True

Explanation: In 1988, Soviet mountaineers Yuri Moiseev and Kazbek Valiev, in collaboration with Zoltan Demján of Czechoslovakia, successfully ascended the southwest buttress. This 3,000-meter climb, characterized by arduous technical ascents, received recognition as the year's most outstanding achievement from the UIAA Expedition Commission.

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During his 1999 solo ascent attempt on Dhaulagiri's south face, Tomaž Humar reached the summit.

Answer: False

Explanation: During his 1999 solo ascent attempt on Dhaulagiri's south face, Tomaž Humar reached an altitude of 7,300 meters but was ultimately stopped by a rock band.

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The 'Pear Buttress' route was the objective of five expeditions between 1953 and 1958.

Answer: True

Explanation: From 1953 to 1958, five expeditions directed their attempts towards Dhaulagiri's north face, specifically targeting the route designated as the 'Pear Buttress'.

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Which climbing route is most commonly utilized for ascents of Dhaulagiri?

Answer: The Northeast Ridge

Explanation: The Northeast Ridge, established during the mountain's first ascent, remains the most frequently used route for climbing Dhaulagiri.

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Which individuals were part of the expedition that accomplished the second ascent of Dhaulagiri in 1970?

Answer: Tetsuji Kawada

Explanation: The second ascent of Dhaulagiri was accomplished in 1970 by a Japanese expedition, with Tetsuji Kawada and Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa successfully reaching the summit.

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Which route did the spring 1978 ascent of Dhaulagiri employ, establishing a new climbing path?

Answer: Southwest Ridge

Explanation: The spring 1978 ascent utilized the Southwest Ridge, marking the first time Dhaulagiri was climbed via a route other than the established Northeast Ridge.

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In 1981, a Yugoslav expedition undertook an attempt on which particularly challenging route on Dhaulagiri?

Answer: The true south face

Explanation: In 1981, a Yugoslav team pioneered the first route on the true south face of Dhaulagiri, a highly demanding undertaking.

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Who was the first female climber to reach the summit of Dhaulagiri, and in what year did this occur?

Answer: Lut Vivijs

Explanation: Lut Vivijs achieved the distinction of being the first woman to summit Dhaulagiri on May 6, 1982, as a member of a Belgian-Nepali expedition.

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What characteristic distinguished the December 1982 ascent of Dhaulagiri by a Japanese team?

Answer: It was conducted under a winter climbing permit.

Explanation: The Japanese team captained by Jun Arima reached the summit on December 13, 1982. While not strictly winter by calendar definition, the expedition operated under a winter climbing permit, which sanctioned ascents commencing from December 1st.

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Who is credited with achieving the first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri?

Answer: Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka

Explanation: The inaugural winter ascent of Dhaulagiri was accomplished by Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka on January 21, 1985, following a demanding seven-week expedition.

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By which international organization was the 1988 Soviet expedition's ascent of the southwest buttress recognized?

Answer: The International Mountaineering Federation (UIAA)

Explanation: The 1988 Soviet ascent of the southwest buttress was recognized by the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) Expedition Commission as the year's most outstanding achievement.

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What was the outcome of Tomaž Humar's solo ascent attempt on Dhaulagiri's south face in 1999?

Answer: He reached 7,300 meters but was stopped by a rock band.

Explanation: During his 1999 solo ascent attempt on Dhaulagiri's south face, Tomaž Humar reached an altitude of 7,300 meters but was ultimately stopped by a rock band.

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Climbing Challenges and Statistics

As of 2007, what was the approximate summit-to-fatality rate recorded for Dhaulagiri?

Answer: True

Explanation: As of 2007, Dhaulagiri exhibited a summit-to-fatality rate of approximately 16.2%, based on 358 ascents and 58 fatalities.

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The South Face of Dhaulagiri is considered one of the easier routes for ascent.

Answer: False

Explanation: The South Face of Dhaulagiri is considered one of the greatest remaining challenges in alpinism due to its extreme technical difficulty and exposure.

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Anatoli Boukreev set a speed record on Dhaulagiri in 1995, climbing from base camp to summit in under 12 hours.

Answer: False

Explanation: In 1995, Anatoli Boukreev attained a speed ascent record on Dhaulagiri, completing the journey from base camp to the summit in 17 hours and 15 minutes.

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What was the summit-to-fatality rate for Dhaulagiri as recorded in 2007?

Answer: Approximately 16.2%

Explanation: As of 2007, Dhaulagiri exhibited a summit-to-fatality rate of approximately 16.2%, based on 358 ascents and 58 fatalities.

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Which face of Dhaulagiri is widely regarded as one of the most formidable remaining challenges in contemporary alpinism?

Answer: South Face

Explanation: The South Face of Dhaulagiri is considered one of the greatest remaining challenges in alpinism due to its extreme technical difficulty and exposure.

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What specific climbing record did Anatoli Boukreev establish on Dhaulagiri in 1995?

Answer: Fastest ascent from base camp to summit (17h 15m)

Explanation: In 1995, Anatoli Boukreev attained a speed ascent record on Dhaulagiri, completing the journey from base camp to the summit in 17 hours and 15 minutes.

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Historical Incidents and Tragedies

Lut Vivijs was the first individual to summit Dhaulagiri.

Answer: False

Explanation: Lut Vivijs was the first woman to summit Dhaulagiri in 1982; she was not the first man.

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The 1969 American expedition on Dhaulagiri resulted in the death of seven members due to an avalanche.

Answer: True

Explanation: In 1969, an American team, led by Boyd Everett, attempted the southeast ridge; however, seven members, including Everett himself, perished in an avalanche.

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Jan Simon died during the ascent of Dhaulagiri's west face in 1984.

Answer: False

Explanation: In 1984, three members of a Czechoslovak expedition successfully climbed the west face to the summit. Regrettably, Jan Simon perished during the descent, not the ascent.

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In 1998, French climber Chantal Mauduit died in a fall into a gorge on Dhaulagiri.

Answer: False

Explanation: French climber Chantal Mauduit died in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri in 1998. Greek climber Nikolaos Papandreou was killed in a fall into a gorge.

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In October 2024, five Russian climbers were reported missing and subsequently found deceased on Dhaulagiri.

Answer: True

Explanation: On October 6, 2024, five Russian climbers—Alexander Dusheiko, Oleg Kruglov, Vladimir Chistikov, Mikhail Nosenko, and Dmitry Shpilevoy—were reported missing during an ascent of Dhaulagiri. Their remains were subsequently located on October 8th.

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Which climber, among the options provided, perished in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri in 1998?

Answer: Chantal Mauduit

Explanation: French climber Chantal Mauduit died in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri in 1998. Greek climber Nikolaos Papandreou was fatally injured in a fall into a gorge, and fellow Greek climber Babis Tsoupras, despite summiting, did not return.

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In October 2024, five Russian climbers went missing and were later found deceased on which mountain?

Answer: Dhaulagiri

Explanation: On October 6, 2024, five Russian climbers were reported missing during an ascent of Dhaulagiri. Their remains were subsequently located on October 8th.

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References and Ancillary Information

The 'List of deaths on Dhaulagiri' is referenced within the 'See also' section of the article.

Answer: True

Explanation: The 'See also' section of the article includes a reference to the 'List of deaths on Dhaulagiri,' alongside the 'List of ultras of the Himalayas'.

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The Authority control section provides links to external library and database catalogs pertaining to Dhaulagiri.

Answer: False

Explanation: The Authority control section offers links to national library and database catalogs, not directly to media files. Media files are typically linked via sections like 'External links' or 'Wikimedia Commons'.

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