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Study Guide: Goldwork Embroidery: History, Techniques, and Materials

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Goldwork Embroidery: History, Techniques, and Materials Study Guide

Fundamentals of Goldwork Embroidery

Is it accurate to assert that goldwork embroidery exclusively employs threads composed of pure, solid gold?

Answer: False

Explanation: The assertion that goldwork embroidery exclusively utilizes threads crafted from pure, solid gold is inaccurate. The practice encompasses a variety of metallic threads, including imitation gold, silver, and copper, valued for their interaction with light.

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Does the primary aesthetic appeal of goldwork stem from its unique capacity to interact with light?

Answer: True

Explanation: Indeed, the principal aesthetic appeal of goldwork embroidery arises from its distinctive interaction with light, which creates a luminous and visually captivating effect.

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Is goldwork considered a form of 'inlay' embroidery where threads are worked into the fabric's structure?

Answer: False

Explanation: Goldwork is exclusively a surface embroidery technique; it is not an inlay method. The threads are applied and worked upon the fabric's surface, not integrated into its structure.

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Is couching, also known as laid work, the most prevalent technique for applying gold threads?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, couching, also referred to as laid work, is indeed the most common and predominant technique employed for the application of gold threads in goldwork embroidery.

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Is goldwork embroidery characterized by its durability and suitability for frequent laundering?

Answer: False

Explanation: Goldwork embroidery is generally not durable enough for frequent laundering due to the nature of the metallic threads and the complexity of the application. It is typically reserved for special use.

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Is 'cloth of gold' a type of goldwork embroidery where metal threads are applied to the surface of a pre-existing fabric?

Answer: False

Explanation: Cloth of gold is a fabric where gold threads are woven throughout the textile structure. Goldwork embroidery, conversely, involves applying metal threads onto the surface of a pre-existing fabric.

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Does goldwork embroidery exclusively incorporate metal threads, excluding other decorative elements?

Answer: False

Explanation: Goldwork embroidery frequently incorporates other decorative elements such as paillettes, pearls, gemstones, and appliqued fabrics alongside metal threads.

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Is silk thread rarely combined with goldwork, due to perceived textural incompatibility?

Answer: False

Explanation: Silk thread is frequently combined with goldwork, often used for couching stitches or for filling areas with traditional embroidery stitches, demonstrating textural compatibility.

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Is goldwork considered a common and easily learned skill in contemporary times?

Answer: False

Explanation: Goldwork is generally considered a specialized and intricate skill that is not commonly practiced or easily learned in contemporary times, often requiring significant training and expertise.

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What is the defining characteristic of goldwork embroidery?

Answer: It utilizes metal threads, often gold-coated or imitation, admired for their interaction with light.

Explanation: The defining characteristic of goldwork embroidery is its use of metallic threads, frequently gold-coated or imitation, which are highly valued for their luminous quality and interaction with light.

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Which technique is described as the predominant method for applying gold threads in goldwork?

Answer: Couching (laid work)

Explanation: Couching, also known as laid work, is identified as the predominant technique for applying gold threads in goldwork embroidery, where threads are laid on the surface and secured by another thread.

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Why is goldwork embroidery generally not suitable for frequent laundering?

Answer: The metal threads are not durable enough to withstand washing.

Explanation: Goldwork embroidery is not suitable for frequent laundering because the metallic threads, regardless of their quality, lack the durability to withstand washing processes.

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How does goldwork embroidery differ fundamentally from 'cloth of gold'?

Answer: Goldwork is surface application, while cloth of gold is woven throughout the textile.

Explanation: The fundamental difference lies in their construction: goldwork embroidery applies metallic threads onto the fabric's surface, whereas cloth of gold is a textile woven with gold threads throughout its structure.

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Historical Origins and Evolution

Did the art of goldwork embroidery originate in Europe approximately 2,000 years ago?

Answer: False

Explanation: The art of goldwork embroidery originated in Asia, with a history extending back at least 2,000 years, rather than originating in Europe.

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Was the style known as Opus Anglicanum, a form of goldwork, primarily employed for secular royal clothing subsequent to the Middle Ages?

Answer: False

Explanation: Opus Anglicanum, while a highly skilled goldwork style, was primarily associated with ecclesiastical vestments and church textiles during the Middle Ages, not predominantly with secular royal clothing after that period.

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Was woven gold thread utilized in Western Asia as early as the 4th century BCE?

Answer: True

Explanation: Historical evidence indicates that woven gold thread was indeed used in Western Asia and around the Mediterranean region as early as the 4th century BCE.

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Did Pliny the Elder accurately document Attalus I of Pergamum as the originator of gold embroidery?

Answer: False

Explanation: While Pliny the Elder attributed the invention of gold embroidery to Attalus I of Pergamum, this claim is considered unlikely by scholars. The textiles from Pergamum were known as 'Attalic' cloth.

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In medieval times, was the visual impact of gold embroidery less significant due to widespread literacy?

Answer: False

Explanation: Conversely, in medieval times, the visual impact of gold embroidery was highly significant, particularly in church works, serving as a powerful medium of communication and awe in a society with limited widespread literacy.

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Was gold embroidery utilized for decorating weapons in European Bronze Age cultures?

Answer: True

Explanation: Historical records indicate that gold embroidery was indeed used for decorating weapons in European Bronze Age cultures, such as the Mycenaean and Wessex cultures, as early as 1700 BC.

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Did St. Etheldreda create a stole and maniple using goldwork for St. Cuthbert?

Answer: True

Explanation: Historical accounts confirm that St. Etheldreda, Abbess of Ely, created a stole and maniple richly adorned with gold embroidery and gems for St. Cuthbert.

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In historical England, was embroidery considered an unsuitable activity for noblewomen?

Answer: False

Explanation: On the contrary, in historical England, embroidery was widely regarded as a suitable and esteemed activity for women of noble status, both secular and religious.

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Does 'Attalic' cloth refer to gold-embroidered textiles originating from ancient Greece?

Answer: False

Explanation: 'Attalic' cloth refers to gold-embroidered textiles originating from Pergamum in ancient Rome, not ancient Greece.

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Was the 'toga picta' a simple tunic decorated with plain white thread?

Answer: False

Explanation: The 'toga picta' was a highly ornate ceremonial garment, typically dyed purple and lavishly decorated with imagery executed in gold thread, not a simple tunic with white thread.

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Did Italian silk production centers begin producing cloth of gold after the Crusades?

Answer: True

Explanation: Following the Crusades, prominent Italian silk production centers, such as Lucca and Venice, initiated the manufacture of cloth of gold and developed technologies for goldworken silk threads.

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Historically, was European-produced gold silk thread perceived as having an 'Eastern brilliance' due to its origins?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, historically, European-produced gold silk thread often retained an association with its origins in the East, contributing to a perception of 'Eastern brilliance'.

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Did the use of goldwork in South Asia predate the arrival of the Greeks?

Answer: True

Explanation: Historical evidence confirms that the practice of goldwork in South Asia predates the arrival of Hellenistic influence in the region.

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Were the 'toga picta' and 'tunica palmata' ceremonial Roman garments embellished with gold thread?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, the 'toga picta' and 'tunica palmata' were indeed ceremonial Roman garments that were elaborately embellished with gold thread.

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Was goldwork embroidery historically employed for military uniforms and regalia in Europe?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, goldwork embroidery has a historical application in Europe for the decoration of military uniforms and regalia, in addition to ecclesiastical and aristocratic use.

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In ancient Rome, were the *toga picta* and *tunica palmata* embellished with gold thread?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, in ancient Rome, the *toga picta* and *tunica palmata* were ceremonial garments that were elaborately embellished with gold thread.

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According to the source, where did the art of goldwork embroidery originate?

Answer: Asia

Explanation: The source indicates that the art of goldwork embroidery originated in Asia, with a history spanning at least two millennia.

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What historical style, known for its high skill in goldwork, was extensively used for church vestments in England?

Answer: Opus Anglicanum

Explanation: Opus Anglicanum is the historical style renowned for its high skill in goldwork, extensively employed for church vestments and textiles in England during the Middle Ages.

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What evidence suggests the use of woven gold thread in ancient civilizations around the Mediterranean and Western Asia?

Answer: Archaeological findings dating back to the 4th century BCE.

Explanation: Archaeological findings provide evidence for the use of woven gold thread in the Mediterranean and Western Asia dating back to the 4th century BCE, appearing in various decorative applications.

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Who is mentioned in connection with the unlikely claim of inventing gold embroidery in Pergamum?

Answer: Attalus I of Pergamum

Explanation: Attalus I of Pergamum is mentioned in connection with the claim, documented by Pliny the Elder, of inventing gold embroidery, although this attribution is considered unlikely.

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What was the significance of visual imagery and metal threads in medieval society, according to the text?

Answer: They created awe-inspiring displays, especially in church works, compensating for limited written communication.

Explanation: In medieval society, visual imagery and metal threads played a crucial role in creating awe-inspiring displays, particularly in ecclesiastical contexts, serving as a potent form of communication and expression where written literacy was less prevalent.

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The 'toga picta' worn by triumphant generals in ancient Rome was typically:

Answer: Dyed purple and decorated with gold thread imagery.

Explanation: The 'toga picta' worn by triumphant Roman generals was typically dyed purple and lavishly decorated with imagery rendered in gold thread.

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What development occurred in Italian silk production centers following the Crusades?

Answer: They began producing cloth of gold and goldworken silk threads.

Explanation: Following the Crusades, Italian silk centers began producing cloth of gold and developed advanced techniques for goldworken silk threads.

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What is 'Attalic' cloth associated with?

Answer: Gold-embroidered textiles from Pergamum.

Explanation: 'Attalic' cloth is associated with gold-embroidered textiles that originated from Pergamum in ancient Rome.

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In ancient Rome, what was the 'tunica palmata'?

Answer: A ceremonial garment embellished with gold thread.

Explanation: In ancient Rome, the 'tunica palmata' was a ceremonial garment that was embellished with intricate gold thread embroidery.

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Regional Styles and Traditions

Is Chao embroidery a style of Chinese gold embroidery originating from the southern province of Guangdong?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, Chao embroidery is recognized as a prominent style of Chinese gold embroidery that originated in Chaozhou, Guangdong province.

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Is Zari the term used for metal thread embroidery specifically in East Asia?

Answer: False

Explanation: Zari is the term for metal thread embroidery commonly used in South Asia, not East Asia. East Asian traditions have their own terminology for such techniques.

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Does the Mamianqun skirt, as depicted, illustrate the application of Chinese goldwork on traditional garments?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, the Mamianqun skirt shown exemplifies the use of Chinese goldwork and other embroideries on traditional Han Chinese attire, dating from the Qing dynasty.

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Do the traditional Nordic Sami peoples' metal embroidery collars primarily utilize pure gold thread?

Answer: False

Explanation: Traditional Nordic Sami metal embroidery collars most commonly employ silver or pewter thread, not pure gold thread.

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Did gold embroidery in China first appear during the Shang dynasty?

Answer: False

Explanation: While archaeological investigations suggest gold embroidery may have originated in China during the Shang dynasty, definitive evidence of its use dates to the Eastern Han dynasty. Therefore, stating it *first* appeared then is not fully substantiated by the provided information.

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Was gold thread introduced to South Asia from China?

Answer: False

Explanation: According to the provided text, gold thread was introduced to the South Asian subcontinent from Singapore, not directly from China.

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Which Chinese gold embroidery style originated in Chaozhou, Guangdong province?

Answer: Chao embroidery

Explanation: Chao embroidery is the style of Chinese gold embroidery that originated in Chaozhou, Guangdong province.

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What is the term for metal thread embroidery commonly used in South Asia?

Answer: Zari

Explanation: The term commonly used for metal thread embroidery in South Asia is 'Zari'.

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What is 'Zari' in the context of South Asian embroidery?

Answer: The term for gold and silver embroideries.

Explanation: 'Zari' is the term used in South Asia to denote gold and silver embroideries, encompassing the metallic threads and the finished works.

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How was gold thread introduced to the South Asian subcontinent according to the provided text?

Answer: Via maritime trade from Singapore.

Explanation: According to the text, gold thread was introduced to the South Asian subcontinent via maritime trade originating from Singapore.

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What type of thread is most commonly used in the traditional Nordic Sami peoples' metal embroidery collars?

Answer: Silver or pewter thread

Explanation: The traditional Nordic Sami peoples' metal embroidery collars most commonly utilize silver or pewter thread.

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Goldwork Threads and Materials

Is the 'mellore' or stiletto tool utilized in goldwork primarily for the removal of excess thread?

Answer: False

Explanation: The 'mellore' or stiletto is not used for removing excess thread. Its function is to assist in positioning the metallic threads accurately and to create small perforations in the fabric for thread passage.

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Is a 'Passing' thread the most basic and commonly used thread type in goldwork?

Answer: True

Explanation: Indeed, the 'Passing' thread is considered the most fundamental and frequently utilized thread type within the practice of goldwork embroidery.

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Does 'Japan thread' or 'jap' feature a core made of solid gold wire?

Answer: False

Explanation: 'Japan thread' (jap) is an economical alternative that uses a foil paper strip wrapped around a core, rather than a solid gold wire core.

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Does Bullion or Purl thread resemble a long, hollow spring and can it be couched or cut into segments?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, Bullion or Purl thread is characterized by its structure resembling a long, hollow spring, and it can be applied either by couching or by cutting it into short segments.

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Does Jaceron (Pearl purl) utilize a flat metal strip that is shaped after being couched?

Answer: False

Explanation: Jaceron (Pearl purl) uses a wide metal strip that is shaped into a rounded form *before* being purled and couched, distinguishing it from threads that use a flat strip.

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Does Frieze or Check purl achieve its sparkle through a faceted shaping of the metal?

Answer: True

Explanation: Frieze or Check purl is distinguished by its faceted metal shaping, which results in a particularly sparkly visual effect.

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Are Roccoco and Crinkle cordonnet threads made by tightly wrapping wire around a cotton core, creating a wavy appearance?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, Roccoco and Crinkle cordonnet threads are constructed by tightly wrapping wire around a cotton core, which imparts a characteristic wavy or kinked appearance.

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Is Milliary wire a type of gold thread that is flattened before being applied?

Answer: False

Explanation: Milliary wire is a type of stretched pearl purl secured to a base of passing thread; it is not a flattened wire.

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Is 'Broad Plate' thread typically used for fine outlining work due to its narrow width?

Answer: False

Explanation: 'Broad Plate' thread refers to a metal strip approximately 2mm wide, generally used for filling areas rather than fine outlining, which requires narrower threads.

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Is 'Flat Worm' or 'Oval thread' a thin metal plate wrapped around a core and then flattened?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, 'Flat Worm' or 'Oval thread' is characterized by being a thin metal plate wrapped around a yarn core and subsequently flattened, making it easier to handle than standard plate thread.

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Are 'Twists' or 'Torsade' threads constructed by twisting together strands of non-metal fibers?

Answer: False

Explanation: 'Twists' or 'Torsade' threads are made by twisting together multiple strands of metal, not non-metal fibers.

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Is felt or string padding sometimes employed in goldwork to create dimension or texture?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, felt or string padding is utilized in goldwork to add dimension and texture to the embroidered design, creating raised areas.

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Does 'Whipped plate' involve wrapping a fine wire around a wider metal strip?

Answer: True

Explanation: Yes, 'Whipped plate' is a goldwork thread type characterized by a fine wire being wrapped around a wider metal strip.

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Is Faconnee or Crimped purl characterized by being crimped at intervals along its length?

Answer: True

Explanation: Faconnee or Crimped purl is indeed characterized by being crimped at intervals along its length, distinguishing it from other purl threads.

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Is the 'mellore' or stiletto used to create holes for pulling threads through in goldwork?

Answer: True

Explanation: The 'mellore' or stiletto is a tool used in goldwork specifically to create small holes in the fabric, facilitating the passage of threads.

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Which type of thread is described as a more economical substitute for 'Passing' thread, using foil paper instead of metal?

Answer: Japan thread (jap)

Explanation: 'Japan thread' (jap) is an economical substitute for 'Passing' thread, utilizing a foil paper strip wrapped around the core instead of a metal strip.

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How is 'Bullion' or 'Purl' thread typically structured?

Answer: A long, hollow spring.

Explanation: 'Bullion' or 'Purl' thread is typically structured as a long, hollow spring, which can be couched or cut into segments.

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What distinguishes Jaceron (Pearl purl) from Lizerine thread?

Answer: Jaceron's metal is pre-shaped into a rounded form, Lizerine uses a flat strip.

Explanation: Jaceron (Pearl purl) is distinguished by its pre-shaped, rounded metal strip, whereas Lizerine thread utilizes a flat metal strip.

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Which of the following is NOT typically incorporated as an accent in goldwork embroidery?

Answer: Sequins made of plastic

Explanation: Sequins made of plastic are not typically incorporated as accents in goldwork embroidery, which favors materials like metal paillettes, pearls, gemstones, and fabric appliqués.

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What is the purpose of using felt or string padding in goldwork?

Answer: To create raised areas or add texture.

Explanation: Felt or string padding is used in goldwork to create raised areas or add texture to the embroidered design, enhancing its dimensionality.

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What is 'Faconnee' or 'Crimped purl' characterized by?

Answer: Being crimped at intervals along its length.

Explanation: 'Faconnee' or 'Crimped purl' is characterized by being crimped at regular intervals along its length, differentiating it from other purl threads.

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Which of the following best describes the 'Broad Plate' thread?

Answer: A metal strip approximately 2mm wide, often folded to fill areas.

Explanation: The 'Broad Plate' thread is best described as a metal strip approximately 2mm wide, frequently folded to fill areas within the embroidery design.

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Specific Techniques and Applications

Does the 'Or nué' technique involve couching plain metal threads directly onto the fabric without any additional decoration?

Answer: False

Explanation: The 'Or nué' technique, translating to 'shaded gold,' is a complex method that uses parallel threads and varied couching stitches to create intricate, shaded images, not plain couching without decoration.

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Does the 'bricking' technique involve laying gold threads in a random pattern to mimic natural textures?

Answer: False

Explanation: The 'bricking' technique does not involve random patterns. It specifically refers to offsetting couching stitches between adjacent rows of 'Passing' threads to create a structured, brick-like visual effect.

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Does the Imperial and Ecclesiastical Treasury in Vienna display vestments decorated with the 'Or nué' technique?

Answer: True

Explanation: The Imperial and Ecclesiastical Treasury in Vienna houses significant examples of vestments decorated using the sophisticated 'Or nué' technique.

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Is the 'Or nué' technique primarily used for depicting landscapes in church embroidery?

Answer: False

Explanation: The 'Or nué' technique is primarily employed in church embroidery for depicting figures, particularly the garments of saints, rather than landscapes.

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What does the term 'Or nué' translate to, and what does it describe?

Answer: 'Shaded gold', a technique using parallel threads and varied couching stitches.

Explanation: 'Or nué' translates to 'shaded gold' and describes a specialized technique involving parallel threads and varied couching stitches to create intricate, shaded designs.

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The 'bricking' technique in goldwork is characterized by:

Answer: Offsetting couching stitches between adjacent rows of 'Passing' threads.

Explanation: The 'bricking' technique is characterized by the offsetting of couching stitches between adjacent rows of 'Passing' threads, creating a visual pattern resembling bricks.

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