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Study Guide: Hanbok: Traditional Korean Attire and Its Cultural Evolution

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Hanbok: Traditional Korean Attire and Its Cultural Evolution Study Guide

Fundamental Components and Terminology

The *jeogori* is the basic upper garment of hanbok, and its *dongjeong* is a permanently attached, colored collar.

Answer: False

Explanation: The *dongjeong* on a *jeogori* is a removable, generally squared-off white collar, not permanently attached or colored.

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What are the four core components that fundamentally compose hanbok?

Answer: Jeogori, baji, chima, and po

Explanation: The four core components that fundamentally compose hanbok are the *jeogori* (top), *baji* (trousers), *chima* (skirt), and *po* (coat).

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Which of the following is a key component of a *jeogori* that is a removable, generally squared-off white collar?

Answer: Dongjeong

Explanation: The *dongjeong* is a key component of a *jeogori*, described as a removable, generally squared-off white collar placed over the *git*.

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What is the underskirt layer worn beneath the *chima* to provide volume and shape called?

Answer: Sokchima

Explanation: The underskirt layer worn beneath the *chima* to provide volume and shape is called *sokchima*.

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What is the primary characteristic design of *baji*, the trousers in men's hanbok?

Answer: They are loose-fitting and roomy, ideal for sitting on the floor.

Explanation: *Baji*, the trousers in men's hanbok, are characterized by their loose-fitting and roomy design, making them ideal for sitting on the floor.

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What is the *magoja* jacket known for, regarding its collar?

Answer: It does not have a *git* (collar trim).

Explanation: The *magoja* jacket is known for not having a *git* (collar trim).

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Which of the following materials was commonly used for *jeogori* in summer?

Answer: Ramie or hemp

Explanation: For *jeogori* in summer, ramie or hemp were commonly used materials due to their lightness.

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Historical Development and Foreign Influences

The term 'hanbok' was first used in the early 19th century to differentiate Korean clothing from Japanese and Western styles.

Answer: True

Explanation: The term *hanbok* emerged in the 1800s during the late Joseon period to distinguish Korean clothing from Japanese and Western styles, with its first known use in an 1881 document.

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Historically, the *goreum* on a *jeogori* was initially placed on the side of the wearer before gradually moving to the front during the Joseon dynasty.

Answer: True

Explanation: Historically, the outside *goreum* was initially placed on the side of the wearer, but during the Joseon dynasty, it gradually moved to the front of the *jeogori*.

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The *sokchima*, or underskirt, traditionally included shoulder straps from the Goguryeo period onwards.

Answer: False

Explanation: The *sokchima* traditionally lacked shoulder straps until the early 20th century, when they were added.

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The *magoja* jacket is characterized by its prominent *git* (collar trim) and was introduced to Korea from China in the late 19th century.

Answer: False

Explanation: The *magoja* jacket is characterized by *not* having a *git* (collar trim) and was introduced to Korea after Heungseon Daewongun returned from exile in Tianjin in 1887.

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The *Goryeoyang* fashion trend saw Goryeo styles influencing the Mongol court of the Yuan dynasty.

Answer: True

Explanation: *Goryeoyang* was a cultural phenomenon where Goryeo fashion influenced the Mongol court of the Yuan dynasty, particularly associated with Empress Gi.

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The *mamigun*, a Joseon-style petticoat, was prohibited in Ming China due to its association with lower social classes.

Answer: False

Explanation: The *mamigun* was prohibited in Ming China due to its widespread popularity among wealthy merchants, aristocrats, and high-ranking ministers, not its association with lower social classes.

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The length of women's *jeogori* consistently increased throughout the Joseon dynasty, reaching its longest in the 19th century.

Answer: False

Explanation: The length of women's *jeogori* gradually shortened throughout the Joseon dynasty, reaching its shortest in the 19th century, with some as short as 14.5 cm.

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The Gapsin Dress Reform of 1884 mandated that all Koreans wear only narrow-sleeved traditional overcoats, regardless of social class.

Answer: True

Explanation: The Gapsin Dress Reform of 1884, decreed by King Gojong, mandated that all Koreans, regardless of social class, age, or gender, wear only narrow-sleeved traditional overcoats like the *durumagi*.

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The earliest visual depictions of hanbok date back to the Goryeo period, specifically the 10th century CE.

Answer: False

Explanation: The earliest visual depictions of hanbok date back to the Three Kingdoms of Korea period, specifically from Goguryeo tomb murals dating from the 4th to 6th century CE.

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The *jeogori* opening in the Goguryeo period was initially closed to the right side, which became standard practice by the 6th century CE.

Answer: False

Explanation: During the Goguryeo period, the *jeogori* opening was initially closed at the center front or to the left side, with closing to the right side becoming standard practice by the 6th century CE.

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Unified Silla's fashion was primarily influenced by indigenous Korean styles, with minimal impact from Tang China.

Answer: False

Explanation: Unified Silla's fashion was significantly influenced by Tang China and Persia, with various silks, linens, and dress styles imported from Luoyang.

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During the Goryeo dynasty, Mongol rule led to the *chima* skirt being shortened and the *jeogori* hiked up above the waist.

Answer: True

Explanation: During the Goryeo dynasty, Mongol rule introduced *Mongolpung*, which resulted in the *chima* skirt being shortened and the *jeogori* hiked up above the waist.

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The *twii*, an early sash-like belt, was replaced by a long, wide *goreum* under Mongol influence during the Goryeo dynasty.

Answer: True

Explanation: The *twii*, an early sash-like belt in ancient hanbok, was replaced by a long, wide *goreum* that tied the *jeogori* at the chest under Mongol influence during the Goryeo dynasty.

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Which Chinese dynasty's court clothing system influenced the *gwanbok* (male official's uniform) in Korea?

Answer: Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties

Explanation: The *gwanbok* (male official's uniform) in Korea was influenced by the court clothing systems of the Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties of China.

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What was the impact of the Gapsin Dress Reform of 1884 on men's traditional attire?

Answer: It required all Koreans to wear only narrow-sleeved traditional overcoats.

Explanation: The Gapsin Dress Reform of 1884 mandated that all Koreans, regardless of social class, age, or gender, wear only narrow-sleeved traditional overcoats.

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How did *gisaeng* influence women's fashion trends during the Joseon dynasty?

Answer: They popularized the shortening of the *jeogori*, making the waistband visible.

Explanation: *Gisaeng* played a significant role in influencing women's fashion trends during the Joseon dynasty by popularizing the shortening of the *jeogori*, which made the waistband of the *chima* visible.

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What does the 18th-century painting of women's hanbok illustrate as a fashionable trend?

Answer: A full skirt combined with a tight *jeogori*.

Explanation: 18th-century paintings of women's hanbok illustrate that a full skirt combined with a tight *jeogori* was considered a fashionable trend during that period.

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Social Hierarchy and Gender-Specific Attire

Neo-Confucianism in the Joseon dynasty encouraged women to wear form-fitting *chima* and shorter *jeogori* to emphasize their figures.

Answer: False

Explanation: Neo-Confucianism in the Joseon dynasty strictly regulated women's clothing, encouraging full-pleated *chima* and longer *jeogori* to hide body lines and ensure modesty, reflecting values of chastity and restraint.

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During the Joseon dynasty, commoners were allowed to wear a wide variety of colors and high-grade materials for their hanbok, similar to the upper classes.

Answer: False

Explanation: During the Joseon dynasty, commoners were restricted to cotton and primarily white for everyday wear, with dull shades for special occasions, unlike the upper classes who wore a variety of colors and high-grade materials.

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Married women in Joseon knotted their hair into a ball-shaped form called *komeori* at the crown of the head.

Answer: False

Explanation: Married women in Joseon knotted their hair into a ball-shaped form called *komeori* at the nape of the neck, not the crown of the head.

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The *binyeo* was a traditional hairpin whose material and tip shape varied according to the wearer's social status.

Answer: True

Explanation: The *binyeo*, a traditional ornamental hairpin, had its material and the shape of its tip vary according to the wearer's class and status, with royal women having dragon or phoenix designs and ordinary women having trees or Japanese apricot flowers.

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For thousands of years, many Koreans have preferred white hanbok, symbolizing purity and light, despite attempts to ban it.

Answer: True

Explanation: For thousands of years, many Koreans have preferred white hanbok, symbolizing purity and light, despite historical attempts during the Joseon dynasty and Japanese occupation to ban white clothes.

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What was the primary reason for King Jeongjo banning *gache* (wigs) in 1788?

Answer: It was due to Confucian values.

Explanation: King Jeongjo banned *gache* (wigs) in 1788 primarily due to Confucian values.

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Which of the following patterns was exclusively reserved for the royal family in Joseon dynasty hanbok?

Answer: *Geumbak*-printed (gold leaf) patterns

Explanation: *Geumbak*-printed (gold leaf) patterns were exclusively reserved for the royal family in Joseon dynasty hanbok.

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What did the *binyeo* symbolize for a woman in Joseon Korea, besides being a fastener and decoration?

Answer: Her marriage, chastity, and decency

Explanation: Besides being a fastener and decoration, the *binyeo* symbolized a woman's marriage, chastity, and decency in Joseon Korea.

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What was the *komeori* hairstyle for married women in Joseon, and where was it typically placed?

Answer: A ball-shaped knot at the nape of the neck.

Explanation: The *komeori* was a ball-shaped knot of long braided hair for married women in Joseon, typically placed just above the nape of the neck.

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What headwear is depicted on a male aristocrat in a Joseon-era image, along with a yellow *dopo*?

Answer: A *gat*

Explanation: A Joseon-era image of a male aristocrat depicts him wearing a *gat* (a horsehair hat) on his head, along with a yellow *dopo*.

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What was *Norigae*, and how did it relate to social rank?

Answer: A traditional accessory for women, with size and material determined by social rank.

Explanation: *Norigae* was a traditional accessory for women, worn by all women regardless of social rank, but its size and material were determined by the wearer's social rank.

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Ceremonial and Official Garments

*Kkachi durumagi* is a ceremonial garment primarily worn by young girls on their first birthday.

Answer: False

Explanation: *Kkachi durumagi* is a children's colorful overcoat primarily worn by young boys as a ceremonial garment for *dol*, the celebration of a baby's first birthday.

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The *jungchimak* was a formal outer garment for *yangban* men that was banned by King Gojong as part of a dress reform.

Answer: False

Explanation: The *jungchimak* was banned by Heungseon Daewongun, not King Gojong, as part of his clothes reformation program, deeming its fashionable aspects as vanity.

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After the *jungchimak* was banned, the *durumagi* replaced it as the formal outwear for *yangban* men, featuring tighter sleeves and no side or back splits.

Answer: True

Explanation: After the *jungchimak* was banned, the *durumagi* replaced it as formal outwear for *yangban* men, characterized by tighter sleeves and the absence of side or back splits.

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The *hwarot* was a full dress worn exclusively by princesses and royal women for formal occasions.

Answer: False

Explanation: The *hwarot* was a full dress worn by princesses, daughters of kings by concubines, upper-class women for formal occasions, *and* ordinary women as bridal wear.

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The *Wonsam* was a ceremonial overcoat whose color indicated the wearer's social rank, with the empress wearing red.

Answer: False

Explanation: The *Wonsam* was a ceremonial overcoat whose color indicated social rank, with the empress wearing yellow, not red.

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The *cheollik* was a Korean adaptation of a Mongol tunic that featured detachable sleeves, useful as bandages in combat.

Answer: True

Explanation: The *cheollik* was a Korean adaptation of the Mongol tunic *Terlig* and featured detachable sleeves that could be used as bandages if the wearer was injured in combat.

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A student who achieved the highest score in a national government exam was rewarded with a red *Aengsam*.

Answer: False

Explanation: A student who achieved the highest score in a national government exam was rewarded with a green *Aengsam*. A red *Aengsam* was awarded by the king to a young, highest-scoring student.

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What was the *jungchimak* and why was it banned?

Answer: A lengthy outer garment for *yangban* men, banned for its fashionable aspects as vanity.

Explanation: The *jungchimak* was a lengthy outer garment for *yangban* men, banned by Heungseon Daewongun because its fashionable aspects were deemed vanity.

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What color *Wonsam* did the empress wear in the Joseon dynasty?

Answer: Yellow

Explanation: In the Joseon dynasty, the empress wore a yellow *Wonsam* as a ceremonial overcoat.

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What unique characteristic did the *cheollik* possess that made it practical for combat?

Answer: Its sleeves were detachable and could be used as bandages.

Explanation: The *cheollik* possessed detachable sleeves, which could be used as bandages if the wearer was injured in combat, making it practical.

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What did the color green signify for a student wearing an *Aengsam*?

Answer: They achieved the highest score in the national government exam.

Explanation: For a student wearing an *Aengsam*, the color green signified that they had achieved the highest score in the national government exam.

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What was the purpose of the beads on the king's *Myeonryu-Gwan*?

Answer: To deter wickedness and prevent him from seeing evil.

Explanation: The beads on the king's *Myeonryu-Gwan* were intended to prevent him from seeing wickedness.

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Which of the following was NOT one of the 'Twelve Ornaments' from which nine symbols were chosen for the king's *Gujang-bok*?

Answer: Phoenix

Explanation: The 'Twelve Ornaments' for the king's *Gujang-bok* included the dragon, fire, pheasant, mountain, tiger, monkey, rice, axe, and water plant. Phoenix was not listed among the nine chosen symbols.

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Modern Revival and Regional Adaptations

North Koreans refer to their traditional attire as 'hanbok', similar to South Korea.

Answer: False

Explanation: North Koreans refer to their traditional attire as *chosŏnot*, which translates to 'Korean clothes', reflecting their preference for the term *Chosŏn*.

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The South Korean government established Hanbok Day in 1996 to encourage citizens to wear hanbok and offers free entry to palaces for tourists wearing it.

Answer: True

Explanation: The South Korean government established Hanbok Day in 1996 to encourage citizens to wear hanbok and actively promotes interest by granting tourists free entry to Seoul's Five Grand Palaces when wearing the attire.

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In North Korea, women are mandated to wear *chosŏnot* only for weddings and parents' 60th, 70th, and 80th birthdays.

Answer: False

Explanation: In North Korea, women are mandated to wear *chosŏnot* for national events such as Kim Jong Il's birthday, International Women's Day, Kim Il Sung's birthday, and Foundation Day, in addition to special occasions like weddings and parents' milestone birthdays.

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The *chaoxianfu* of the *chaoxianzu* in China developed its unique style due to approximately 50 years of isolation from both North and South Korea.

Answer: True

Explanation: The *chaoxianfu* of the *chaoxianzu* ethnic group in China developed its unique style due to approximately 50 years of isolation from both North and South Korea.

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When do contemporary Koreans typically wear hanbok?

Answer: For formal or semi-formal occasions and significant events

Explanation: Contemporary Koreans typically wear hanbok for formal or semi-formal occasions and significant events such as weddings, festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies, rather than for daily casual wear.

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What is one way the South Korean government promotes interest in hanbok today?

Answer: Granting tourists free entry to Seoul's Five Grand Palaces when wearing hanbok.

Explanation: The South Korean government promotes interest in hanbok by granting tourists free entry to Seoul's Five Grand Palaces when wearing the attire.

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What is the length of the *chima* (skirt) in North Korean *chosŏnot* often adapted to for practical purposes?

Answer: About 30 cm from the ground, for ease of movement.

Explanation: For practical purposes, the *chima* (skirt) of the *chosŏnot* in North Korea is often adapted to a length of about 30 cm from the ground to facilitate movement.

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What does the A-line silhouette of the *chaoxianfu* for the *chaoxianzu* people symbolize?

Answer: A mountain, symbolizing women's stability as family hosts.

Explanation: The A-line silhouette of the *chaoxianfu* for the *chaoxianzu* people symbolizes a mountain, representing women's stability as family hosts.

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What was the traditional color preference for *chaoxianfu* among the *chaoxianzu* people, and what did it represent?

Answer: White, representing cleanliness, simplicity, and purity.

Explanation: The *chaoxianzu* people traditionally preferred to wear white *chaoxianfu*, which represented cleanliness, simplicity, and purity.

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What is the significance of azalea patterns in North Korean *chosŏnot*?

Answer: They are associated with the emotional poem 'Azaleas' by Kim So-wol.

Explanation: Azalea patterns in North Korean *chosŏnot* are significant due to their association with the emotional poem 'Azaleas' by Kim So-wol.

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What is the modern status of hanbok in daily wear versus special occasions?

Answer: It is reserved for traditional occasions like weddings and ancestral rites.

Explanation: Today, hanbok is reserved for traditional occasions such as weddings, the Lunar New Year, annual ancestral rites, or the birth of a child, rather than for daily wear.

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