Motovun: The Hilltop Jewel of Istria
Discover the medieval allure, rich cultural tapestry, and unique natural treasures of this Croatian gem.
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About Motovun
A Town in the Hills
Motovun, known historically as Montona, is a picturesque village and municipality situated in central Istria, western Croatia. Perched atop a hill approximately 270 meters (886 feet) above sea level, it offers commanding views of the surrounding landscape.
Ancient Origins
The site of Motovun has been inhabited since antiquity. Both the Celts and Illyrians established fortresses here. The village's name itself is believed to derive from the Celtic word "Montona," signifying "a town in the hills."
Historical Transit
The historic Parenzana railway, a narrow-gauge line connecting Trieste and Poreฤ, traversed the valley below Motovun between 1902 and 1935, serving as a vital link in the region's transportation network during that era.
History & Architecture
Medieval Fortifications
Motovun evolved from an ancient settlement into a formidable medieval town. Its strategic hilltop location was fortified with robust walls that remain remarkably intact today, forming a unique walkway offering panoramic vistas across Istria. The town's structure showcases a blend of architectural styles.
Venetian Influence
From 1278, Motovun was under Venetian rule. This period significantly shaped its architecture, evident in the town's three distinct sections connected by a system of internal and external fortifications. These include towers and city gates, exhibiting elements of Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance styles, characteristic of Venetian colonial design between the 14th and 17th centuries.
Architectural Details
Within the inner walls, visitors can observe various coats-of-arms belonging to former ruling families. The town also preserves gravestones from Roman inhabitants, dating back to the 1st century, offering a glimpse into its long and layered past.
Parish Church of St. Stephen
Renaissance Masterpiece
The late-Renaissance Parish Church of St. Stephen (Sveti Stjepan) was constructed in the early 17th century. Architectural sketches suggest potential design contributions from the renowned Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio (1508โ1580).
Artistic Treasures
The church houses several significant works of art. These include marble statues of St. Stephen and St. Laurence by Francesco Bonazzo, and a 17th-century painting depicting the Last Supper, attributed to an anonymous Venetian artist.
Historical Cisterns
Adjacent to the church, the square features water cisterns that date back to the 14th and 15th centuries, underscoring the town's historical infrastructure and resource management.
The Motovun Forest
Truffle Haven
Nestled below Motovun, along the Mirna River, lies the famed Motovun forest. This unique area, spanning approximately 10 square kilometers with 280 hectares under special protection, is renowned for its rich soil and the successful cultivation of prized black and white truffles (Tuber magnatum). These subterranean fungi are traditionally gathered using specially trained dogs.
Unique Ecosystem
The forest's ecosystem is distinct, differing significantly from surrounding karst regions due to its specific wildlife and moist soil conditions. The dominant tree species is the English oak (Quercus robur). To maintain these natural conditions, the protected area is periodically flooded, even with the river's controlled flow.
Viticultural Heritage
The sun-drenched slopes surrounding Motovun are ideal for viticulture, producing grapes for renowned Istrian wines, notably the robust Teran and the aromatic Malvazija varieties.
The Legend of Veli Joลพe
A Benevolent Giant
Motovun is intrinsically linked to the legend of Veli Joลพe, a benevolent giant figure from Istrian folklore. This character was immortalized by Vladimir Nazor, a prominent Croatian writer of the 20th century, in a story inspired by local tales.
Cultural Significance
Nazor's narrative, written during a period of national identity struggles (circa 1900โ1914), resonated deeply within Croatia. The character of Veli Joลพe has since become synonymous with Motovun, representing a significant element of the region's cultural heritage.
Motovun Today
Film Festival Hub
Since 1999, Motovun has been the host of the internationally acclaimed Motovun Film Festival, dedicated to showcasing independent and avant-garde cinema from the United States and Europe.
Development Debates
A significant contemporary issue involves proposed large-scale development projects, including golf courses and resorts, in the valley below the town. This has sparked debate within the local community, balancing potential economic benefits against concerns for the protected truffle grounds and the town's natural environment.
Numismatic Heritage
Motovun's distinctive ground plan was historically featured on the reverse side of the Croatian 10 kuna banknote. This design appeared on banknotes issued in 1993, 1995, 2001, and 2004.
Demographics
Population Overview
According to the 2021 census, the municipality of Motovun recorded a total population of 912 residents. The settlement of Motovun itself is home to 397 inhabitants.
| Settlement | Population (2021) |
|---|---|
| Brkaฤ | 223 |
| Kaldir | 228 |
| Motovun | 397 |
| Sveti Bartol | 64 |
Density and Distribution
The overall population density for the municipality stands at approximately 28 inhabitants per square kilometer. The urban area has a density of around 29 inhabitants per square kilometer.
Languages
Official Recognition
While the Croatian government does not mandate official bilingualism for Motovun, the municipality's own statute formally recognizes and upholds the use of both Croatian and Italian languages, reflecting the region's historical and cultural context.
Notable Residents
Racing Legend
Motovun is the birthplace of the celebrated racing driver Mario Andretti and his twin brother Aldo, both born in 1940. Their early years involved racing handcrafted wooden cars through the town's steep streets before their family emigrated after World War II.
Renaissance Printer
The town is also the birthplace of Andrea Antico, a prominent Italian music printer of the Renaissance era, born in 1495. He is recognized for inventing the first movable wooden types for printing musical scores, revolutionizing music dissemination in the early 16th century.
Cultural Contributions
Independent Cinema
The annual Motovun Film Festival has established the town as a significant venue for independent and avant-garde cinema, attracting filmmakers and enthusiasts from across the globe since its inception in 1999.
Folklore and Identity
The enduring legend of Veli Joลพe, the gentle giant, remains a powerful symbol deeply intertwined with Motovun's identity, reflecting its rich folklore and historical narrative.
Notes
Legal Framework
The Statute of Motovun provides the legal framework for the municipality's governance and recognizes its linguistic heritage.
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References
References
- The Statute of Motovun รขยย Montona
- hr:Veli Joร ยพe
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