What is the defining characteristic of a tailcoat?

A tailcoat is a type of knee-length coat distinguished by a rear section of the skirt, known as the tails, while the front of the skirt is cut away. This distinctive cut gives the garment its name and silhouette.

What historical activity influenced the initial design of the tailcoat?

The tailcoat shares its historical origins with clothing designed for convenient horse-riding during the Early Modern era. This practical consideration for movement likely influenced the cut that would later evolve into the formal wear we recognize today.

How did the tailcoat evolve from its origins?

From the 18th century onwards, tailcoats evolved beyond their practical origins to become general forms of both day and evening formal wear. This evolution paralleled the rise of other suit styles, such as the lounge suit replacing the frock coat.

What are the two main types of tailcoats that have survived in 21st-century Western dress codes?

In contemporary Western dress codes, two primary types of tailcoats persist: the Dress coat, an evening wear item with a squarely cut-away front worn for white tie occasions, and the Morning coat (or cutaway in American English), a day-wear item with a gradually tapered front cut away, worn for formal morning dress.

What is the typical colloquial understanding of the term 'tailcoat' when used without further specification?

When the term 'tailcoat' is used colloquially without additional context, it typically refers to the evening dress coat worn as part of the white tie ensemble. This is the more commonly recognized form in general conversation.

What does the image of Beau Brummell illustrate about Regency period dress coats?

The image of Beau Brummell depicts him wearing a Regency period dress coat as daytime attire. This illustration highlights that the coat could be closed and featured knee-length tails, showcasing a style prevalent during that era.

What historical event is Winfield Scott depicted wearing a tailcoat during?

The provided image shows Winfield Scott wearing a tailcoat during the Battle of Veracruz. This suggests that tailcoats were sometimes worn by military figures even in active service during certain periods.

What is shown in the 1939 image related to tailcoats?

The 1939 image displays a women's black wool tailcoat. This indicates that the tailcoat style was adapted for women's fashion during that period.

In what specific field is the shadbelly variant of the tailcoat still worn?

The shadbelly, a variant of the tailcoat, is still worn in certain equestrian disciplines. It serves as daytime formalwear within these specific contexts.

How does the cut of a shadbelly compare to the early 19th-century style and the modern evening dress coat?

The shadbelly's cut is closer to the early 19th-century style, as exemplified by Beau Brummell, than to the modern evening dress coat. It retains a connection to historical tailoring while serving its contemporary purpose.

What is the male version of the shadbelly sometimes called?

The male version of the shadbelly is often referred to as a 'weaselbelly'. This colloquial term distinguishes it within equestrian circles.

What type of dress code was the Levée dress coat traditionally associated with?

The Levée dress coat was traditionally worn as part of court dress. It was a formal garment associated with royal courts and official ceremonies.

Until when was the Levée dress coat typically worn?

The Levée dress coat was traditionally worn until the mid-twentieth century. Its use declined with changing formal wear conventions.

What materials were traditionally used for the Levée dress coat and its lining?

The Levée dress coat was typically made of black velvet, with its body lined in black silk and its skirts lined in white silk. This combination of materials contributed to its formal appearance.

What specific garments and accessories were worn with a Levée dress coat?

A Levée dress coat was worn with breeches, black silk hose, a white bow tie, white gloves, and court shoes (pumps) that featured steel buckles. These elements completed the formal ensemble.

How was the front of the Levée dress coat cut?

The front of the Levée dress coat was cut away squarely, similar to the standard dress coat. This cutaway design is characteristic of formal tailcoats.

During what approximate period was the coatee worn as part of the British army infantry uniform?

The coatee, a red tail coat with short tails, was part of the British army infantry uniform from approximately 1790 until after the Crimean War. This period spanned roughly seven decades of military wear.

What were the distinguishing features of the British army coatee, besides its red color and short tails?

In addition to its red color and short tails, the British army coatee featured collars and cuffs in the regimental colors and had white braid applied to the front. These details helped identify different regiments.

Why did elite light infantry units like the 95th Rifles wear short green coats instead of the standard red coatee?

Elite light infantry units, such as the 95th Rifles, were issued short green coats to provide better camouflage in their operational environments and to allow for greater ease of movement during combat.

What color was the coatee issued to enlisted men in the American army during the War of 1812?

During the War of 1812, the American army issued a coatee in dark blue to its enlisted men. This uniform was in service until 1833.

When were tailcoats relegated to full dress in the American military context?

In the American military, tailcoats were relegated to full dress by the time the M1858 uniform was introduced. Prior to this, officers had continued to wear tailcoats until after the Mexican War, when frock coats became standard field wear.

How did the Royal Navy incorporate tailcoats into its officer hierarchy?

The Royal Navy had an elaborate system of tailcoats for its officers, where the number of buttons and the amount of gilding varied according to rank and seniority. Junior officers wore single-breasted versions, while officers of lieutenant rank and above wore double-breasted tailcoats.

What is a key difference in the tail length of a Highland coatee compared to a standard dress coat?

While a Highland coatee features a square cutaway front similar to a dress coat, its tails are cut significantly shorter. This distinct feature is part of traditional Highland dress.

What was the primary purpose of a footman's coat?

A footman's coat was worn as livery, serving as a uniform for servants. It was typically knee-length with a sloped cutaway front, resembling a morning coat.

How did the cutaway front of a footman's coat differ from that of a morning coat?

The footman's coat featured a sloped cutaway front, similar to a morning coat, distinguishing it from the squarely cut-away front of a dress coat. It was single-breasted with a stand-up collar and gilt buttons.

What are alternative names for a dress coat?

A dress coat is also known by alternative names such as a swallow-tail or a claw-hammer coat. These names refer to its distinctive shape.

Since when has the dress coat been exclusively worn in the evening as part of the white tie dress code?

Since the 1850s, the dress coat has been exclusively worn in the evening as part of the white tie dress code, also known as evening full dress. This marked a shift from its earlier use as both day and evening wear.

How did the dress coat evolve in terms of its use for day versus evening wear?

The dress coat was once worn for both day and evening occasions, becoming particularly popular during the British Regency and in America in the 1830s to 1850s. However, it was gradually supplanted for formal day wear by the frock coat and later the morning coat, eventually becoming exclusively an evening garment.

What type of trousers were traditionally worn with a dress coat in the Regency period versus the Victorian era onwards?

In the Regency period, dress coats were typically worn with non-matching trousers, pantaloons, or breeches. Since the Victorian era, the modern dress coat for evening wear has been paired with matching trousers made of the same cloth, featuring two stripes of braiding down the side.

How has the construction of the dress coat changed regarding its waist seam and lapels since the Victorian era?

Since the Victorian era, the dress coat's revers (lapels) have typically featured silk facings, such as grosgrain or satin. Additionally, since the 1830s, the coat has been constructed with a waist seam that allows for greater waist suppression, improving the fit.

Why are the buttons on a modern double-breasted dress coat typically non-functional?

Although modern dress coats are often double-breasted in style, they have not fastened in the front since the 1870s. Consequently, the rows of buttons serve a purely decorative purpose rather than functional fastening.

What are the essential components of a modern white tie ensemble that includes a black dress coat?

A modern white tie ensemble with a black dress coat includes a stiff, white wing-collar dress shirt with a plain bib, single cuffs with cufflinks, a matching white bowtie and waistcoat, black trousers with silk braiding, and black oxfords or pumps polished to a mirror shine or made of patent leather. Black, over-the-calf silk socks are also worn.

What materials were traditionally used for a gentleman's top hat worn with a dress coat?

Traditionally, a gentleman's top hat worn with a dress coat was made of silk plush. However, as supplies of this material have been exhausted, inferior hats are now made from silk or felt cloth.

Describe the typical cut and fastening of a morning coat.

A morning coat is a single-breasted coat where the front parts usually meet at one button in the middle. From this point, it curves away gradually into a pair of tails at the back, which are often adorned with two ornamental buttons on the waist seam.

What type of lapels are usually found on a modern morning coat, and why?

Modern morning coats typically feature pointed lapels (American English: peak lapels) rather than step lapels (notch lapels). This is because the morning coat is now exclusively worn as formalwear, and pointed lapels are considered more appropriate for such occasions.

What colors are morning coats typically made in for morning dress?

For morning dress, morning coats are usually made in either grey or black. They are commonly worn with striped trousers, though occasionally checked trousers are also paired with them.

What is a morning suit composed of?

A morning suit can consist of a morning coat, typically mid-grey, worn with matching trousers and a waistcoat. Alternatively, it can be worn with a contrasting waistcoat, often light grey or in club colors, especially for events like weddings or races.

What is the American English term for a morning coat?

In modern American English, a morning coat is referred to as a 'cutaway coat'. This term highlights the distinctive way the front of the coat is cut away.

What was the historical origin of the term 'morning coat'?

The name 'morning coat' originates from the practice of gentlemen wearing such garments for morning horseback-riding exercise during the nineteenth century. It was initially considered an informal style of 'half dress'.

In England and Australia, at which events is a morning coat commonly seen today?

In England and Australia, morning coats are still commonly seen today at events such as weddings, formal baptisms, and specific races like Royal Ascot, the Derby, and the Victoria Derby. They are often worn with a contrasting waistcoat for these occasions.

What is the traditional practice for the Marshal and Clerk of the United States Supreme Court regarding morning coats?

The Marshal and Clerk of the United States Supreme Court traditionally wear morning coats when the justices appear in public wearing their robes. This includes occasions like court sessions or attending the President's State of the Union address.

What is the current practice for male deputies of the United States Solicitor General when arguing before the court?

Male deputies of the United States Solicitor General continue the tradition of wearing morning dress when arguing cases before the Supreme Court. This practice maintains a historical sartorial standard for legal representation.

What does the term 'shadbelly' refer to in equestrianism?

In equestrianism, a shadbelly is a variant of the tailcoat worn in certain disciplines as daytime formalwear. Its cut is closer to early 19th-century styles than modern evening dress coats.

What were the characteristics of the Levée dress coat used for diplomatic dress?

A version of the Levée dress coat made of black barathea was worn as diplomatic dress. It shared the formal cutaway style but was adapted for official diplomatic functions.

How did the Royal Navy's tailcoats differ based on officer rank?

In the Royal Navy, officers' tailcoats featured an elaborate hierarchy with varying numbers of buttons and gilding according to rank. Junior officers wore single-breasted tailcoats, while those of lieutenant rank and above wore double-breasted versions.

What is a 'dress suit' according to tailors?

A 'dress suit', as referred to by tailors, is the ensemble comprising a modern dress coat worn with matching trousers of the same cloth, which feature two stripes of braiding down the side. This term specifically applies to the white tie ensemble.

What is the significance of the waist seam in modern dress coat construction?

Since around the 1830s, dress coats have been constructed with a waist seam. This feature allows for greater waist suppression, enabling a more tailored and fitted silhouette.

What is the difference between a 'dress coat' and a 'morning coat' in terms of their primary use?

A dress coat is primarily an evening wear item, specifically for formal white tie occasions, characterized by its squarely cut-away front. In contrast, a morning coat is designed for formal day wear, such as morning dress, and features a gradually tapered front cut away.

What does the term 'cutaway' signify in American English regarding tailcoats?

In American English, the term 'cutaway' is used to refer to a morning coat. This name reflects the distinctive style where the front of the coat is cut away in a gradual slope.

What historical context led to the development of tailcoats with features like cutaway fronts?

The development of tailcoats with features like cutaway fronts originated from practical needs in the Early Modern era, specifically for convenient horse-riding. This initial design consideration evolved over centuries into the formal wear styles seen today.

What is the typical color of a morning coat worn for formal day wear?

A morning coat worn as part of formal day wear is typically grey or black. It is usually paired with striped or, less commonly, checked trousers.

Tailcoat Wiki: The Tailored Legacy: A Definitive Exploration of the Tailcoat

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Defining the Tailcoat

The Tailored Silhouette

A tailcoat is a distinctive knee-length coat characterized by a rear section of the skirt, known as the tails, with the front of the skirt significantly cut away. This unique design provides a flattering silhouette and historical context.

Equestrian Origins

The tailcoat shares its historical origins with garments designed for practical horse-riding during the Early Modern era. This functional design laid the groundwork for its later evolution into formal wear.

Dual Formal Roles

From the 18th century onwards, tailcoats evolved into essential components of both daytime and evening formal wear. This dual functionality has ensured its enduring presence in Western dress codes, paralleling the rise of the lounge suit and the decline of the frock coat.

Historical Trajectory

From Utility to Elegance

The tailcoat's journey began as a practical garment for horseback riding in the Early Modern period. By the 18th century, it had begun its transformation into a symbol of formal attire, adapting to the evolving social and sartorial landscapes of Europe.

Formal Wear's Foundation

In parallel with the succession of the frock coat by the lounge suit in the 19th century, tailcoats solidified their place in formal dress. This period saw the tailcoat bifurcate into distinct forms for day and evening wear, a distinction that persists to this day.

Modern Vestiges

In contemporary 21st-century Western dress codes, two primary types of tailcoats remain prominent: the evening dress coat for white tie occasions and the morning coat for formal daytime events. These garments represent the enduring legacy of tailored formality.

Varieties of the Tailcoat

Shadbelly

In equestrian circles, a variant known as the shadbelly persists as daytime formalwear. Its cut is closely aligned with the early 19th-century style, differing from the modern evening dress coat. The male version is colloquially referred to as a "weaselbelly."

Levée Dress Coat

Traditionally worn with court dress until the mid-20th century, this type of dress coat was typically crafted from black velvet. It was reserved for formal court appearances, levées, and evening state functions for those not in uniform. A version in black barathea served as diplomatic dress. Its construction featured a single-breasted front, a stand-up collar, gauntlet cuffs, and was often adorned with six buttons at the front and two decorative ones at the back, lined with black silk and featuring white silk skirts.

Military Coatee

From approximately 1790 until after the Crimean War, a red tailcoat with shortened tails, known as a coatee, was a standard part of British infantry uniforms. Elite units like the 95th Rifles wore green coats for camouflage. Similar dark blue uniforms were issued to American enlisted men during the War of 1812 until 1833. While officers continued to wear tailcoats, they were eventually relegated to full dress status, superseded by frock coats for field wear.

Highland Coatee

Worn as part of Highland dress, this coatee features a square cut-away front, similar to a dress coat, but with notably shorter tails, maintaining a distinct silhouette.

Footman's Coat

This garment served as livery, the uniform for servants. It was knee-length with a sloped cut-away front, akin to a morning coat. Characterized by a single-breasted design, stand-up collar, and gilt buttons, it often featured three-pronged side pockets, echoing the style of the levée dress coat.

The Dress Coat

Evening Formal Wear

The dress coat, often colloquially termed a "swallow-tail" or "claw-hammer" coat, is exclusively worn by men as part of the white tie dress code for formal evening occasions. Tailors and historians traditionally refer to it as a "dress coat" to distinguish it from other tailcoat variants.

Evolution and Style

Evolving from a garment worn for both day and evening, the dress coat became exclusively evening wear from the 1850s. Its front is squarely cut away, reaching to the knees in the back with two distinct tails. Modern iterations often feature non-functional, decorative buttons on the double-breasted front, a style adopted since the 1870s.

Essential Ensemble

When worn as part of modern white tie attire, the black dress coat is paired with a stiff, white wing-collar dress shirt, marcella or satin bowtie, a white waistcoat, black trousers with silk braiding, and highly polished black oxfords or pumps. Accessories such as a top hat, silk scarf, and white gloves complete the ensemble.

The Morning Coat

Daytime Formal Attire

The morning coat, known as the "cutaway" in American English, is the principal garment of morning dress. It is a single-breasted coat where the front curves away gradually into two tails at the back, typically fastened by a single button.

Historical Context

Originating from 19th-century horseback riding attire, the morning coat was initially considered informal half-dress. It gradually gained acceptance as a formal daytime alternative to the frock coat and is now primarily seen at formal daytime events such as weddings, baptisms, and prestigious races.

Contemporary Usage

Typically worn in grey or black, the morning coat is usually paired with striped or checked trousers. It forms part of a morning suit, often with a contrasting waistcoat. Its use persists in specific formal contexts, including by members of the Japanese cabinet upon their first public appearance and by officials of the United States Supreme Court.

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References

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This document has been generated by an Artificial Intelligence, drawing upon information from the provided source material. It is intended for academic and educational purposes, aiming to present historical and sartorial information with clarity and precision suitable for higher education students.

This is not professional fashion or historical advice. The content is based on a specific dataset and may not encompass all nuances or the most current interpretations. Users should consult primary historical sources and academic experts for definitive research and professional guidance.

The creators of this page are not responsible for any inaccuracies, omissions, or actions taken based on the information presented herein. Always cross-reference information with authoritative academic and historical resources.

The Tailored Legacy

💡 Dive in with Flashcard Learning! 💡

Defining the Tailcoat ℹ️

🧥 The Tailored Silhouette

🐎 Equestrian Origins

🎩 Dual Formal Roles

Historical Trajectory ⏳

📜 From Utility to Elegance

👑 Formal Wear's Foundation

🌐 Modern Vestiges

Varieties of the Tailcoat 👔

🐎 Shadbelly

👑 Levée Dress Coat

🎖️ Military Coatee

🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Highland Coatee

🤵‍♂️ Footman's Coat

The Dress Coat 🌙

🌙 Evening Formal Wear

🎩 Evolution and Style

👔 Essential Ensemble

The Morning Coat ☀️

☀️ Daytime Formal Attire

📜 Historical Context

🎩 Contemporary Usage

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Disclaimer ⚠️

📜 Academic Integrity and Information Accuracy

Dive in with Flashcard Learning!

Defining the Tailcoat

The Tailored Silhouette

Equestrian Origins

Dual Formal Roles

Historical Trajectory

From Utility to Elegance

Formal Wear's Foundation

Modern Vestiges

Varieties of the Tailcoat

Shadbelly

Levée Dress Coat

Military Coatee

Highland Coatee

Footman's Coat

The Dress Coat

Evening Formal Wear

Evolution and Style

Essential Ensemble

The Morning Coat

Daytime Formal Attire

Historical Context

Contemporary Usage

Teacher's Corner

True or False?

Test Your Knowledge!

Gamer's Corner

Discover other topics to study!

References

Feedback & Support

Disclaimer

Academic Integrity and Information Accuracy