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Cowgate Chronicles

An academic exploration of a historic Edinburgh street, detailing its evolution from medieval origins to modern resilience.

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The Cowgate: An Edinburgh Artery

Geographical Context

The Cowgate is a significant street situated in the heart of Edinburgh's historic Old Town, Scotland. It lies approximately 550 yards (500 meters) southeast of Edinburgh Castle, positioning it as a key thoroughfare within the city's UNESCO World Heritage Site. Notably, the Cowgate occupies the lower level of the Old Town, distinct from the elevated streets of South Bridge and George IV Bridge that span above it.

Urban Fabric

The street connects the Grassmarket at its western extremity (Cowgatehead) to Holyrood Road in the east. Its unique position below the main thoroughfares highlights Edinburgh's complex, multi-layered urban development. Historically, this lower elevation played a role in its character and challenges.

Historical Significance

Emerging around 1330, the Cowgate represents one of Edinburgh's earliest municipal extensions. Its development reflects the city's growth beyond its initial core. The street's name and historical practices underscore its deep roots in the city's commercial and social past.

A Chronicle of Cowgate

Early Development and Naming

The Cowgate's origins trace back to approximately 1330, marking Edinburgh's first significant municipal expansion. Initially, settlement was concentrated on the south side, influenced by the presence of a burn (stream) to the north, which was later filled in and built upon around 1490. Archaeological findings, including a 14th-century boundary ditch near St Patrick's Church, suggest the street's early extent.

The street's name, recorded variously as Cowgate and the Latin "Via Vaccarum" (Way of the Cows) by 1498, derives from the medieval practice of herding cattle along the thoroughfare on market days. The term "gate" itself is a Scots word signifying "way" or "road," common in Germanic languages.

Medieval Prominence and Social Stratification

By 1516, Cowgate Port, a gatehouse within the city wall, stood at its junction with St Mary's Wynd. In 1581, Georg Braun and Frans Hogenberg noted in their atlas that the Cowgate was distinguished as a residential area for "noble families and city councillors," alongside other "princely houses and palaces." This suggests a period of considerable prestige.

Historical records indicate that Mary, Queen of Scots, resided in a Cowgate house in 1566, where the Court of the Exchequer convened. Following her abdication, accounts by her adversaries and George Buchanan describe her visits to the Earl of Bothwell at an adjacent residence, facilitated by Margaret Beaton, Lady Reres.

Transformation into a Slum

Between the mid-18th and mid-20th centuries, the Cowgate underwent a significant transformation, evolving into a predominantly poor and often overcrowded slum area. During the 19th century, it became a hub for the city's Irish immigrant community, earning it the moniker "Little Ireland." This period reflects broader societal shifts and the challenges faced by immigrant populations in urban centers.

The 2002 Fire: A Defining Event

The Incident

On the evening of December 7, 2002, a substantial fire originated above the Belle Angele nightclub, adjacent to the Cowgate. The blaze rapidly escalated, spreading through the eight-story structure and engulfing adjacent buildings on both the Cowgate and the elevated South Bridge. The complex, narrow layout of the area, characterized by tight alleys and multiple street-level entrances to the same building, presented formidable challenges for firefighting efforts, described by Lothian and Borders Fire Brigade as a "rabbit warren."

Response and Impact

At its peak, 19 fire crews battled the blaze for over a day before it was brought under control, with complete extinguishment taking several more days. Fortunately, despite the intensity of the fire and the evacuation of 150 residents, there were no fatalities.

The fire caused extensive damage, most notably to the University of Edinburgh's School of Informatics. This institution was a pioneer in artificial intelligence research in the 1950s, and its comprehensive archival library in this field was tragically destroyed. Fortunately, critical research data was preserved due to offsite backups.

The Gilded Balloon, a prominent venue for the Edinburgh Fringe festival, housed in a historic 1823 warehouse designed by Thomas Hamilton, was also destroyed. Offices for the Gilded Balloon and Underbelly venues were lost, with the Gilded Balloon subsequently relocating.

Contemporary Cowgate: Redevelopment and Resilience

Post-Fire Redevelopment

Following the 2002 fire, the site remained a gap for several years. In 2005, work commenced on a new building, the Informatics Forum, which was occupied by mid-2008. The gap site itself was eventually acquired by property developer Whiteburn. Planning permission was granted in January 2009 for a mixed-use development incorporating the site and adjacent structures. Completed in late 2013, this development includes a Sainsbury's supermarket, an Ibis Hotel, retail units, restaurants, a nightclub, and a venel (narrow alleyway).

Planning Disputes and Hotel Development

In 2016, the proposed construction of a luxury hotel by Jansons Property faced significant opposition from protesters, including local homeless individuals. Concerns were raised regarding the potential impact on Edinburgh's UNESCO World Heritage status, displacement of homeless services, and obstruction of natural light to the Edinburgh Central Library. MSP Andy Wightman supported the campaign.

Planning permission for the Virgin Hotel, encompassing the India Buildings on Victoria Street and a facade on Cowgate, was granted in 2016. By 2018, councillors requested that developers utilize lighter materials to enhance light penetration into the Central Library.

Recent Events

On November 2, 2024, a disturbing discovery was made in the Cowgate when a severed head was found. Authorities believe the remains belong to a 74-year-old man who had been struck by a bus. Police responded promptly, securing the area and evacuating nearby establishments.

Architectural Heritage

Magdalen Chapel

Located at the western end, the Magdalen Chapel is the oldest surviving building on Cowgate. Constructed in the mid-16th century (completed 1544) using funds bequeathed by Michael MacQueen, it originally served as an almshouse chapel and hospital dedicated to Mary Magdalen. It later passed to the Incorporation of Hammermen. The entrance was rebuilt in 1613, and a spire was added in 1620.

St Cecilia's Hall

Built in 1763 by architect Robert Mylne for the Musical Society of Edinburgh, St Cecilia's Hall is a significant Georgian concert venue. It currently houses an important collection of early keyboard instruments managed by the University of Edinburgh.

St Patrick's Roman Catholic Church

Standing at the eastern end of Cowgate, St Patrick's Church dates from 1772. It underwent substantial remodelling in 1929 after the demolition of adjacent tenements that had previously obscured its facade.

Libraries and Other Structures

The lower floors of both the National Library of Scotland and the Edinburgh Central Library are situated on the Cowgate, although their public access points are located above on George IV Bridge. The former Cowgatehead Free Church, a Gothic structure from 1861, has been incorporated into the Virgin Hotel development.

Notable Figures

Janet Boyman

Court documents from December 29, 1572, record Janet Boyman's residence in Cowgate at the time of her execution for witchcraft, highlighting the street's association with historical social and legal events.

James Connolly

The prominent Irish socialist leader and revolutionary, James Connolly, was born at number 107 Cowgate in 1868. A likeness of Connolly and a commemorative plaque are situated beneath the George IV Bridge, acknowledging his connection to the area.

Hibernian F.C. Founders

The esteemed football club Hibernian F.C. was established in August 1875 by congregants of St Patrick's Roman Catholic Church in the Cowgate. The club maintained its base at St Patrick's until the early 1890s, and historical trophies from this period are still displayed within the church.

Clergy and Nuns

Canon John Gray, a noted poet and priest, served as a curate at St Patrick's Church. Additionally, Venerable Margaret Sinclair, a nun, resided on Blackfriars Street, adjacent to the Cowgate.

Location Overview

Interactive Map

The Cowgate is situated in the Old Town of Edinburgh, Scotland. Its position below South Bridge and George IV Bridge is a defining characteristic of its geography within the city's historic core.

Cowgate Map of Cowgate, Edinburgh Native name Cougait (Scots) Length 0.4 mi (0.64 km) Location Edinburgh, Scotland Postal Code EH1 West End Candlemaker Row East End The Pleasance

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References

References

  1.  George Buchanan, Ane Detectioun of the Duinges of Marie Quene of Scottes, (1571).
  2.  R. H. Mahon, The indictment of Mary Queen of Scots (Cambridge, 1923), p. 35
A full list of references for this article are available at the Cowgate Wikipedia page

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Disclaimer

Important Notice

This page has been generated by an Artificial Intelligence and is intended for informational and educational purposes only. The content is derived from a snapshot of publicly available data and may not be entirely comprehensive, up-to-date, or reflective of the most current scholarship or conditions.

This is not professional advice. The information provided herein is not a substitute for expert historical research, architectural consultation, urban planning analysis, or legal advice. Always consult with qualified professionals for specific inquiries related to historical interpretation, property development, or legal matters.

The creators of this page are not responsible for any errors or omissions, or for any actions taken based on the information provided.