What is Dhaulagiri's global ranking in terms of height among mountains?

Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world, with an elevation of 8,167 meters (26,795 feet) above sea level.

In which country is Dhaulagiri located, and what is its significance regarding national borders?

Dhaulagiri is located in Nepal and holds the distinction of being the highest mountain situated entirely within the borders of a single country.

When and by whom was Dhaulagiri first successfully climbed?

The first successful ascent of Dhaulagiri was achieved on May 13, 1960, by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.

What is the distance between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I, and what significant geographical feature lies between them?

Annapurna I is located 34 kilometers (21 miles) east of Dhaulagiri. The Kali Gandaki River flows between them in the Kaligandaki Gorge, which is reputed to be the world's deepest gorge.

What is the meaning of the name Dhaulagiri in Sanskrit?

The name Dhaulagiri originates from Sanskrit, where 'dhawala' means dazzling, white, or beautiful, and 'giri' means mountain. Thus, Dhaulagiri translates to 'White Mountain'.

From which regions in India can Dhaulagiri be observed under clear weather conditions?

In clear weather, Dhaulagiri is visible from the plains of northern Bihar and as far south as Gorakhpur in Uttar Pradesh, India.

What was the significance of Dhaulagiri in mountain surveying in the early 19th century?

In 1808, survey computations identified Dhaulagiri as the highest mountain that had been surveyed up to that point. This distinction was later surpassed by Kangchenjunga in 1838 and Mount Everest in 1858.

Describe the vertical relief of Dhaulagiri.

Dhaulagiri exhibits immense vertical relief, rising approximately 7,000 meters (22,970 feet) from the Kali Gandaki River just 30 kilometers to its southeast. Its South and West faces also present dramatic, precipitous rises of over 4,000 meters (13,120 feet).

What makes Dhaulagiri unique among the eight-thousanders in Nepal concerning its topographic prominence?

Despite being geographically closer to other major peaks like Cho Oyu and Mount Everest, Dhaulagiri's prominence parent is K2, located over 1,031 kilometers away. This makes it unique among Nepal's eight-thousanders.

What is the geological composition of Dhaulagiri's summit rocks, and how does it contrast with other major Himalayan peaks?

The summit rocks of Dhaulagiri, similar to Mount Everest, are composed of limestone and dolomite, which formed at the bottom of the ocean. In contrast, the summits of most other Himalayan eight-thousanders are made of granite, formed deep within the Earth.

What is the status of Dhaulagiri in terms of being climbed among the world's highest mountains?

Dhaulagiri was the second-to-last eight-thousander mountain to be summited globally and the final one within Nepal. Most ascents have utilized the Northeast Ridge route established during the first ascent.

Which routes on Dhaulagiri remain unclimbed along their entire length, and which is considered a major challenge?

The Northwest Ridge and the South Face of Dhaulagiri remain unclimbed along their full lengths. The South Face, in particular, is often regarded as one of the greatest remaining challenges in alpinism.

What was the summit-to-fatality rate for Dhaulagiri as of 2007?

As of 2007, Dhaulagiri had recorded 358 successful ascents with 58 fatalities, resulting in a summit-to-fatality rate of 16.2%.

How did the expedition member death rate on Dhaulagiri compare to other Nepalese eight-thousanders between 1950 and 2006?

Between 1950 and 2006, the death rate for expedition members and staff on Dhaulagiri was 2.88%, which was higher than the average rate of 1.63% for all eight-thousanders in Nepal during the same period.

What was the outcome of the 1950 French expedition concerning Dhaulagiri?

The 1950 French expedition, led by Maurice Herzog, reconnoitered Dhaulagiri but did not find a feasible route. They subsequently shifted their focus to Annapurna, where they achieved the first ascent of an 8,000-meter peak.

Which route was the focus of multiple expeditions between 1953 and 1958 on Dhaulagiri?

During the period of 1953 to 1958, five expeditions attempted to climb Dhaulagiri via the north face, specifically the route known as the 'Pear Buttress'.

Who led the first expedition to attempt Dhaulagiri's northeast ridge in 1959?

The first attempt on the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri was made by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec in 1959.

What significant technological innovation supported the 1960 first ascent expedition of Dhaulagiri?

The 1960 Swiss-Austrian expedition that achieved the first ascent of Dhaulagiri utilized the first prototype fixed-wing aircraft. This aircraft set a record for the highest landing by a fixed-wing plane before crashing in the Hidden Valley north of the mountain.

What tragedy occurred during the 1969 American expedition on Dhaulagiri?

In 1969, an American team led by Boyd Everett attempted the southeast ridge, but seven members, including Everett, were killed in an avalanche.

Who accomplished the second ascent of Dhaulagiri, and in what year?

The second ascent of Dhaulagiri was achieved in 1970 by a Japanese expedition, with Tetsuji Kawada and Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa reaching the summit.

Which American team made the third ascent of Dhaulagiri, and what year was it?

The third ascent of Dhaulagiri was made by an American team led by James D. Morrissey in 1973. The summit team included John Roskelley, Louis Reichardt, and Nawang Samden Sherpa.

What disaster struck a Japanese team attempting the southwest ridge of Dhaulagiri in 1975?

In 1975, a Japanese team attempting the southwest ridge of Dhaulagiri suffered a tragedy when six members, including Norio Suzuki, died in an avalanche.

When was the fourth ascent of Dhaulagiri completed, and by which expedition?

The fourth ascent of Dhaulagiri was completed in 1976 by an Italian expedition.

Who attempted the south face of Dhaulagiri in 1977, and what was the significance of the 1978 spring ascent?

Reinhold Messner led an international team that attempted the south face in 1977. The spring 1978 ascent marked the first time the mountain was climbed via a route other than the northeast ridge (specifically, the southwest ridge), though one team member died during this ascent.

What notable events occurred during the 1978 autumn climbing season on Dhaulagiri?

In the autumn of 1978, a Japanese team led by Seiko Tanaka successfully climbed the difficult southeast ridge, although four members died during the ascent. Concurrently, a French team attempted the southwest buttress, reaching an altitude of 7,200 meters.

What was the achievement of the Polish-led team in 1980 on Dhaulagiri?

In 1980, a team including Polish climbers Voytek Kurtyka and Ludwik Wiczyczynski, along with Frenchman René Ghilini and Scotsman Alex MacIntyre, climbed the east face to 7,500 meters before descending due to a storm. They later successfully summited via the northeast ridge on May 18th.

What significant attempt was made on Dhaulagiri's true south face in 1981?

In 1981, a Yugoslav team established the first route on the true south face of Dhaulagiri, reaching 7,950 meters. They climbed in alpine style but faced severe conditions, including four days of open bivouacs and six days without food before their return.

Who was the first woman to reach the summit of Dhaulagiri, and in what year?

Lut Vivijs became the first woman to summit Dhaulagiri on May 6, 1982, as part of a Belgian-Nepali team.

What was unique about the December 1982 ascent of Dhaulagiri by a Japanese team?

The Japanese team led by Jun Arima achieved a summit on December 13, 1982. Although not technically winter by calendar definition, the climb was conducted under a winter climbing permit, which allowed for ascents starting from December 1st.

What route did the Czechoslovak expedition successfully climb in 1984, and what casualty occurred?

In 1984, three members of a Czechoslovak expedition climbed the west face to the summit. Sadly, Jan Simon died during the descent.

Who achieved the first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri, and on what date?

The first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri was achieved by Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka on January 21, 1985, after a challenging seven-week expedition.

What was the accomplishment of the Soviet mountaineers in 1988 on Dhaulagiri?

In 1988, Soviet mountaineers Yuri Moiseev and Kazbek Valiev, in collaboration with Zoltan Demján of Czechoslovakia, successfully climbed the southwest buttress. This 3,000-meter ascent, featuring difficult technical climbing, was recognized as the year's most outstanding achievement by the UIAA Expedition Commission.

What record did Anatoli Boukreev set on Dhaulagiri in 1995?

In 1995, Anatoli Boukreev achieved a speed ascent of Dhaulagiri, setting a record time of 17 hours and 15 minutes from base camp to the summit.

What climbing tragedies occurred on Dhaulagiri in 1998?

The year 1998 saw several tragedies on Dhaulagiri: French climber Chantal Mauduit and Sherpa Ang Tshering died in an avalanche on the Northeast Ridge. Greek climber Nikolaos Papandreou was killed in a fall into a gorge, and another Greek climber, Babis Tsoupras, summited but did not return.

What significant events happened on Dhaulagiri in 1999 related to climbing?

In 1999, British climber Ginette Harrison died in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri. Additionally, Tomaž Humar made a solo ascent of the south face, reaching 7,300 meters before being stopped by a rock band, and subsequently descended via the northeast ridge.

What incident involving Russian climbers occurred on Dhaulagiri in October 2024?

On October 6, 2024, five Russian climbers—Alexander Dusheiko, Oleg Kruglov, Vladimir Chistikov, Mikhail Nosenko, and Dmitry Shpilevoy—went missing while climbing Dhaulagiri. Their bodies were discovered on October 8th.

What lists are mentioned in the 'See also' section of the article?

The 'See also' section references the 'List of ultras of the Himalayas' and the 'List of deaths on Dhaulagiri'.

What types of sources are cited in the article regarding Dhaulagiri?

The article cites various sources, including the American Alpine Journal, books like 'The Kurt Diemberger Omnibus' and 'High Asia', Sanskrit-English dictionaries, and online resources such as Peakbagger.com and the Himalayan Database.

What is the significance of Dhaulagiri being the highest mountain within the borders of a single country?

This means that Dhaulagiri's entire mass and summit are contained within the territory of Nepal, unlike mountains that straddle international borders.

What does the infobox caption 'Aerial view of Dhaulagiri I from the southwest' describe?

The caption refers to a photograph showing Dhaulagiri I as seen from an aircraft approaching from the southwest direction.

What does the map linked in the Geography section illustrate?

The map illustrates the location of Dhaulagiri within the Himalayas, showing its position relative to surrounding countries and potentially other major peaks, indicated by numbered markers.

What does the reference to Dhaulagiri's summit rock composition imply about its geological history?

The presence of limestone and dolomite at Dhaulagiri's summit suggests that these rocks were formed in a marine environment, indicating that the area was once submerged under an ocean before tectonic forces uplifted the Himalayas.

What does the term 'prominence parent' refer to in the context of mountains?

Topographic prominence measures how much a peak rises above its surroundings. The 'prominence parent' is the higher mountain from which a peak's prominence is measured, indicating its isolation or connection within a mountain system.

What is the 'Northeast Ridge' referred to as in the context of Dhaulagiri's climbing routes?

The Northeast Ridge is identified as the easiest route for climbing Dhaulagiri and was the route used during its first ascent in 1960.

What does the 'partial timeline' section detail about Dhaulagiri's climbing history?

The partial timeline provides a chronological account of significant expeditions, first ascents, notable attempts, and tragedies associated with climbing Dhaulagiri from 1950 up to 2024.

What does the reference to 'penultimate eight-thousander' mean in relation to Dhaulagiri?

It means that Dhaulagiri was the second-to-last mountain among the fourteen highest peaks in the world (eight-thousanders) to be successfully climbed.

What does the reference to 'fixed-wing aircraft' in the 1960 ascent imply about the expedition's logistics?

It implies that the expedition utilized aircraft for logistical support, likely for transporting supplies or personnel to a higher altitude base camp, which was a pioneering use of such technology in Himalayan expeditions at that time.

What does the mention of 'winter climbing permit' signify for the December 1982 ascent?

A winter climbing permit indicates that the Nepali government officially recognized the climb as occurring during the winter season, even if the calendar date was slightly before the official start of winter, likely due to specific meteorological conditions or expedition timing.

What does the 'Authority control' section provide information about?

The Authority control section provides links to various national library and database catalogs (like the Library of Congress, Czech National Library, and Israel National Library) where Dhaulagiri is cataloged, helping to identify and manage information about the mountain.

What is the significance of the 'Wikimedia Commons' link in the external links section?

The link to Wikimedia Commons indicates that a collection of media files, such as photographs and potentially videos, related to Dhaulagiri is available for public access and use.

What does the reference to Dhaulagiri being the highest point of the Gandaki River basin mean?

This indicates that Dhaulagiri is the mountain located at the highest elevation within the entire watershed area drained by the Gandaki River and its tributaries.

Dhaulagiri Wiki: Dhaulagiri: The White God's Ascent

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Overview

Location and Status

Dhaulagiri, situated in Nepal, stands as the seventh-highest mountain on Earth. Its summit reaches an impressive 8,167 meters (26,795 feet) above sea level. Notably, it is the highest mountain entirely within the borders of a single country.

First Ascent

The formidable peak was first successfully summited on May 13, 1960, by a joint Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. This marked a significant achievement in mountaineering history, opening a new chapter in Himalayan exploration.

Proximity to Annapurna

Dhaulagiri I is geographically positioned 34 kilometers (21 miles) east of Annapurna I. The mighty Kali Gandaki River flows between these two giants, carving what is reputed to be the world's deepest gorge, the Kaligandaki Gorge.

Geography

Himalayan Context

Dhaulagiri's immense scale is evident from the plains of northern India, where it is visible on clear days, a rare sight for such distant peaks. In 1808, its height was calculated to be the highest known mountain, a distinction it held until later surveys identified Kangchenjunga and Mount Everest.

Vertical Relief

The mountain exhibits unparalleled vertical relief. It rises approximately 7,000 meters (22,970 feet) from the Kali Gandaki River in just 30 kilometers to its southeast. Its South and West faces present sheer ascents exceeding 4,000 meters (13,120 feet), posing extreme challenges.

Geological Composition

Interestingly, the summit rock layers of Dhaulagiri, much like Mount Everest, are composed of marine limestone and dolomite. This geological characteristic points to their formation at the bottom of ancient oceans, contrasting with the granite summits of other high Himalayan peaks.

Toponymy

Meaning of the Name

The name "Dhaulagiri" originates from Sanskrit. The term "dhawala" translates to "dazzling," "white," or "beautiful," while "giri" signifies "mountain." Thus, Dhaulagiri poetically means "White Mountain," aptly describing its snow-capped majesty. It also represents the highest point within the Gandaki River basin.

Climbing History

Early Attempts and First Ascent

Dhaulagiri was one of the last eight-thousanders to be summited, and the final one in Nepal. Initial reconnaissance in 1950 by a French expedition identified no feasible route, leading them to Annapurna. Subsequent expeditions between 1953 and 1958 focused on the north face. An Austrian expedition in 1959 made the first attempt on the northeast ridge, paving the way for the successful 1960 ascent.

Innovative Support

The 1960 first ascent was notably supported by the first prototype fixed-wing aircraft used for Himalayan climbing. This aircraft established a record for the highest fixed-wing landing before being abandoned after a crash.

Hazards and Fatalities

The mountain is not without its perils. Several expeditions have faced tragic outcomes due to avalanches, including a notable incident in 1969 where seven team members perished. As of 2007, the fatality rate for expeditions above base camp was 16.2%, a significant figure compared to other 8,000-meter peaks.

Routes and Challenges

Northeast Ridge

The Northeast Ridge route, pioneered by the first ascent team, remains the most frequently used path to the summit. Its relative accessibility, compared to other faces, has made it the standard route for most climbers.

The South Face

The South Face of Dhaulagiri is widely regarded as one of the greatest remaining challenges in alpinism. Despite numerous attempts, its immense scale and technical difficulty have repelled all efforts to climb it along its full length.

Other Notable Routes

Other significant routes include the Northwest Ridge (partially climbed), the Southeast Ridge, and various attempts on the South Pillar and direct North Face. These routes represent the cutting edge of high-altitude mountaineering, demanding exceptional skill and endurance.

Records and Milestones

First Winter Ascent

The first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri was achieved on January 21, 1985, by Polish mountaineers Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka. This remarkable feat was accomplished after a grueling seven-week struggle against extreme conditions.

Speed Ascent

In 1995, renowned mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev completed a remarkable speed ascent, reaching the summit from base camp in an impressive 17 hours and 15 minutes, setting a new benchmark for efficiency on the mountain.

First Female Ascent

Lut Vivijs of Belgium achieved the distinction of being the first woman to summit Dhaulagiri on May 14, 1982, as part of a Belgian-Nepali team.

Related Peaks

Himalayan Giants

Dhaulagiri is part of the grand tapestry of the Himalayas. Understanding its context involves exploring other major peaks in the region, including its neighbors and other eight-thousanders.

Dhaulagiri (7th highest)
Annapurna (10th highest)
Manaslu (8th highest)
Mount Everest (1st highest)
Kangchenjunga (3rd highest)

For a comprehensive list, consult resources detailing the ultras of the Himalayas.

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References

Dhaulagiri I, himilayanpeaks.wordpress.com, accessed 2Aug2016.

A full list of references for this article are available at the Dhaulagiri Wikipedia page

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Disclaimer

Important Notice

This content has been generated by an AI model and is intended for educational and informational purposes only. It is based on data sourced from Wikipedia and may not reflect the most current or complete information available.

This is not professional advice. Information regarding mountaineering, high-altitude climbing, and associated risks should be verified with official sources and experienced professionals. Climbing expeditions carry inherent dangers, including severe weather, avalanches, and altitude-related illnesses. Always consult with qualified guides and experts before undertaking any such activity.

The creators of this page are not responsible for any errors or omissions, or for any actions taken based on the information provided herein.

Dhaulagiri: The White God's Ascent

💡 Dive in with Flashcard Learning! 💡

Overview 🏔️

📍 Location and Status

🗓️ First Ascent

↔️ Proximity to Annapurna

Geography 🗺️

🌍 Himalayan Context

⛰️ Vertical Relief

🪨 Geological Composition

Toponymy 📜

🗣️ Meaning of the Name

Climbing History 🧗

📜 Early Attempts and First Ascent

✈️ Innovative Support

⚠️ Hazards and Fatalities

Routes and Challenges 🧭

➡️ Northeast Ridge

🧗 The South Face

🔄 Other Notable Routes

Records and Milestones 🏆

❄️ First Winter Ascent

⚡ Speed Ascent

👩 First Female Ascent

Related Peaks 🔗

⛰️ Himalayan Giants

Teacher's Corner 🧑‍🏫

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References

📜 References

Feedback & Support 👍

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Disclaimer ⚠️

📜 Important Notice

Dive in with Flashcard Learning!

Overview

Location and Status

First Ascent

Proximity to Annapurna

Geography

Himalayan Context

Vertical Relief

Geological Composition

Toponymy

Meaning of the Name

Climbing History

Early Attempts and First Ascent

Innovative Support

Hazards and Fatalities

Routes and Challenges

Northeast Ridge

The South Face

Other Notable Routes

Records and Milestones

First Winter Ascent

Speed Ascent

First Female Ascent

Related Peaks

Himalayan Giants

Teacher's Corner

True or False?

Test Your Knowledge!

Gamer's Corner

Discover other topics to study!

References

Feedback & Support

Disclaimer

Important Notice