Hanbok: Threads of Time

🕰️ A Term of Recent Origin

The term "hanbok" itself is a relatively recent coinage, emerging in the 1800s within a specific historical context. Its genesis is closely tied to the late Joseon period, an era marked by intense geopolitical competition as the Empire of Japan and various Western powers vied for influence over Korea.

🌐 Distinguishing Korean Identity

The earliest documented use of "hanbok" appears in an 1881 document from the late Joseon period, the Chŏngch'iilgi. In this context, "hanbok" served as a crucial descriptor to differentiate Korean clothing from the burgeoning styles of Japanese and Western attire. This distinction was further reinforced in an 1895 document, solidifying its role in articulating a distinct Korean sartorial identity.

🇰🇵 Divergent Nomenclature

Following the division of Korea, a linguistic divergence emerged in the preferred terminology for this traditional dress. South Korea adopted and popularized "hanbok," aligning with its broader preference for terms incorporating the Hanja character Han (韓) to denote the Korean people. Conversely, North Korea opted for "Chosŏn-ot," reflecting its inclination towards the term Chosŏn (朝鮮) in its national nomenclature.

👘 Po: The Robe

Po is a general term for an outer robe or overcoat. There are two primary types: the indigenous Korean type, which has been a common style since the Three Kingdoms period and is still used today, and the Chinese type, comprising various po styles from mainland China. The durumagi, a Korean type of po, was worn for warmth and became a widely adopted outer robe over jeogori and baji. Other related garments include baeja (sleeveless outer garments) and kwaeja (men's sleeveless outer garments).

🛡️ Dapho & Bigap: Military and Mongolian Influences

The dapho is a short-sleeved men's outer garment, frequently integrated into military or official uniforms. Its adoption in Korea can be traced back to the Goryeo period, influenced by the Mongol Yuan dynasty. Similarly, the bigap, a sleeveless outer garment, also originated from Mongolian clothing styles worn during the Goryeo period, showcasing the significant cultural exchange of the era.

🪶 Banbi & Magoja: Diverse Jackets

Banbi, meaning 'half sleeve,' refers to various short-sleeved garments worn over inner attire, originating from the Tang dynasty's Hanfu. These were typically worn over round-collar robes. The magoja is a distinctive jacket characterized by the absence of a git (collar trim). Introduced to Korea by Heungseon Daewongun in 1887 after his exile in Tianjin, its long-sleeved form was derived from the magwae worn for warmth. Made often of silk and adorned with amber danchu, magoja became popular for its warmth and ease of wear.

🦺 Jokki: The Vest

The jokki is a type of vest, distinct from the outer jacket magoja. Its emergence in Korea dates to the late Joseon dynasty, coinciding with the increasing influence of Western culture. This garment reflects a period of sartorial adaptation as Korean fashion began to incorporate elements from external styles.

🏛️ Three Kingdoms & Goguryeo Origins

The earliest visual evidence of hanbok dates to the Three Kingdoms of Korea period (57 BCE to 668 CE), with roots in the ancient clothing of northern Korea and Manchuria. Goguryeo tomb murals from the 4th to 6th centuries CE depict the foundational structure of hanbok: jeogori (jackets), baji (trousers), and twii (sash-like belts) for both sexes, with women also wearing skirts over their trousers. This basic form has largely endured, though jeogori length and closure methods evolved over time, with right-side closure becoming standard by the 6th century CE. Early Goguryeo jeogori were hip-length kaftan tunics, and po overcoats were full-body kaftan robes, both belted at the waist. Roomy pants, similar to those found at Xiongnu burial sites, were common, with tighter ankle bindings potentially indicating status. Conical hats, sometimes adorned with bird feathers, were common headgear, symbolizing connections to the sky.

🔄 North-South States & Foreign Exchange

During the North-South States Period (698–926 CE), the fundamental clothing structure from the Three Kingdoms era persisted. Silla and Balhae adopted the dallyeong, a circular-collar robe from Tang dynasty China, which itself originated from nomadic clothing of Western and Central Asia. In Silla, the dallyeong became formal attire for officials and royalty. Unified Silla (668-935 CE) saw significant imports of silks, linens, and fashions from Tang China and Persia. King Munmu of Silla even decreed that the queen's costume should resemble Tang styles, leading women to adopt shoulder straps and wear skirts over their jeogori. However, King Heundeog later prohibited extravagant Tang clothing. Balhae's clothing culture was a blend of Tang, Goguryeo, and indigenous Mohe elements, with officials adopting Tang elements like the putou and round-collared gowns, while also utilizing practical garments like fish-skin skirts for warmth.

👑 Goryeo Dynasty Transformations

In the Goryeo period, the Tang-influenced style of wearing skirts over tops gradually receded, leading to a resurgence of the native Goguryeo style (top over skirt) among the aristocracy, though the Tang style coexisted. The 13th century brought significant changes under Mongol rule, as Mongolian princesses marrying into the Korean royal family introduced Mongolian fashion, known as Mongolpung. King Chungryeol even mandated Mongol clothing for the aristocracy. This influence led to shorter chima skirts, jeogori hiked above the waist and tied with a long, wide goreum. Conversely, Goryeo hanbok, particularly the Goryeoyang (Goryeo style), influenced the Mongol court, especially during the late Yuan dynasty under Empress Gi, with Goryeo-style clothing, boots, and hats becoming a craze. This influence extended to Ming China, where the mamigun (horsehair skirt) from Joseon/Goryeo became a popular fashion item among the elite, though it was later prohibited.

📜 Joseon Dynasty Evolution

The Joseon period hanbok continued the sartorial traditions of Goguryeo and Goryeo, with Neo-Confucianism profoundly dictating clothing styles across all social strata. Economic hardships post-Japanese invasions (1592–98) may have contributed to closer-fitting styles. View Joseon Era Details ⬇️

🌟 Chosŏn-ot: Identity and Occasion

In North Korea, hanbok is known as chosŏnot and is actively promoted as a symbol of Korean ethnic identity, particularly under the leadership of Kim Jong Un. It is typically reserved for special occasions such as weddings, milestone birthdays (60th, 70th, 80th), and mandatory attendance at national events, including Kim Jong Il's birthday, International Women's Day, Kim Il Sung's birthday, and Foundation Day. The color white, traditionally favored by Koreans for its symbolism of a pure spirit, is often chosen for chosŏnot.

🎓 Uniforms and Modern Adaptations

The chima-jeogori remains the standard attire for women, including female university students who are required to wear it as part of their school uniforms, typically in a black-and-white style since the early 2000s. For practical purposes, the chima is often designed to be about 30 cm from the ground, facilitating movement and comfort for daily wear, while also imparting a modern aesthetic. Patterns on chosŏnot carry special meanings; younger generations favor floral prints and bright colors, while older individuals prefer simpler styles and solid colors. Azaleas, in particular, are popular in regions like Yongbyon due to their association with the emotional poem "Azaleas" by Kim So-wol. Men occasionally wear chosŏnot as well.

📈 Economic and Cultural Dynamics

Chosŏnot garments are generally more expensive than ordinary clothing, with options ranging from approximately US$20 for basic models to around US$3000 for those made in China with South Korean designs and fabrics. Rental services are available for those unable to afford a purchase. Following extreme economic contractions in the mid-1990s, women gained the ability to purchase chosŏnot in private markets and choose their preferred colors and designs. A significant cultural exchange occurred in 2001 when South Korean hanbok designer Lee Young-Hee held a fashion show in Pyongyang. Since 2002, North Korea has hosted its own annual fashion shows in Pyongyang, and there has been an increase in specialized customization shops, particularly in larger cities like Pyongyang and Gaesong, driven by public service initiatives. In 2024, the custom of Korean costume was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage by North Korea.

📜 References