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Mark Inglis: Summit of Resilience

An exploration of a life defined by overcoming extreme challenges, from the depths of adversity to the world's highest peaks.

About Mark ๐Ÿ‘ค Achievements ๐Ÿ†

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Biography

Mark Joseph Inglis

Born on 27 September 1959, Mark Inglis is a distinguished New Zealander known for his multifaceted career as a mountaineer, researcher, winemaker, and motivational speaker. He holds a degree in Human Biochemistry from Lincoln University, New Zealand, where he conducted research focused on leukaemia. His journey is marked by extraordinary resilience and a drive to push boundaries, both physically and intellectually.

Accomplishments

Inglis is recognized for numerous achievements, including being the first double leg amputee to summit Mount Everest. He is also an accomplished cyclist, having won a silver medal in the 1 km time trial at the 2000 Summer Paralympics in Sydney. His entrepreneurial spirit is evident in his creation of the sports drink and energy gel brand, PeakFuel.

Recognition

In recognition of his services to persons with disabilities, Inglis was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit (ONZM) in the 2002 Queen's Birthday and Golden Jubilee Honours. He continues to inspire through his work as a motivational speaker and goodwill ambassador.

Mountaineering Journey

Early Career and Aoraki/Mount Cook

Inglis began his professional mountaineering career in 1979 as a search and rescue mountaineer in Aoraki / Mount Cook National Park. A pivotal moment occurred in 1982 when he and climbing partner Philip Doole were trapped in a snow cave for 13 days during a severe blizzard on Aoraki / Mount Cook. The ordeal resulted in severe frostbite, leading to the amputation of both his legs 14 cm below the knee.

Undeterred by his amputations, Inglis returned to Aoraki / Mount Cook. On January 7, 2002, he successfully reached the summit, a feat documented in the film No Mean Feat: The Mark Inglis Story. This climb demonstrated his extraordinary determination and ability to overcome physical adversity.

High-Altitude Ascents

Inglis continued to push his limits on high-altitude peaks. On September 27, 2004, he successfully climbed Cho Oyu with three companions. This ascent marked a significant milestone, making him only the second double amputee to summit a mountain exceeding 8,000 meters (26,000 ft).

Paralympic Achievements

Sydney 2000 Success

Beyond mountaineering, Mark Inglis is also a formidable athlete in cycling. Competing as a double leg amputee, he achieved significant success at the 2000 Summer Paralympics in Sydney. He secured a silver medal in the 1 km time trial event, showcasing his exceptional skill and competitive spirit on the track.

Conquering Everest

First Double Amputee Summit

On May 15, 2006, after a challenging 40-day expedition, Mark Inglis achieved a historic feat by becoming the first double amputee to reach the summit of Mount Everest, the world's highest mountain. This accomplishment cemented his status as an inspirational figure in extreme sports and human endurance.

The ascent was fraught with peril. While acclimatizing at 6,400 meters, a fixed-line anchor failed, causing Inglis to fall and break one of his carbon fiber prosthetic legs. The leg was temporarily repaired with duct tape until a spare could be brought from base camp. The expedition was notably filmed for the Discovery Channel series Everest: Beyond the Limit.

The David Sharp Controversy

Ethical Dilemmas on Everest

During his Everest ascent in 2006, Inglis and his party encountered a distressed climber, David Sharp, near the summit. Despite Sharp's critical condition, Inglis's group continued towards the summit, a decision that drew significant criticism, notably from Sir Edmund Hillary, who argued that helping a fellow climber should have taken precedence over reaching the summit.

Inglis defended his actions, initially attributing the decision to expedition leader Russell Brice, who was at base camp. Inglis cited the extreme difficulty of assisting someone at such high altitude, stating, "trouble is at 8,500 metres it's extremely difficult to keep yourself alive, let alone anyone else alive." However, expedition leader Russell Brice later contradicted Inglis's account, stating he was unaware of Sharp's distress until after Inglis's group had passed. Video evidence and radio logs were cited, suggesting Inglis's group knew of Sharp's condition and did not offer aid on their descent either, although another climber, Maxime Chaya, and his Sherpa attempted to assist.

Personal Life

Family and Residence

Mark Inglis resides in Hanmer Springs, New Zealand, with his wife Anne and their three children. His personal life reflects a balance between his adventurous pursuits and family commitments.

Media Appearances

Inglis has been featured in various media, including an appearance on TVNZ's This Is Your Life in 2007. More recently, he participated in the New Zealand panel show 7 Days in 2024, demonstrating his continued engagement with public life.

Authored Works

Literary Contributions

Mark Inglis has authored four books that chronicle his remarkable life experiences:

  • No Mean Feat (2002): Details his survival on Aoraki/Mount Cook, his successful summit of the mountain, and his Paralympic endeavors.
  • To the Max: a Teen Reader's Version of No Mean Feat (2003): A version adapted for younger readers.
  • Off the Front Foot (2003): Offers insights into coping with life's challenges, both positive and negative.
  • No Legs on Everest (2006): A comprehensive account of his Mount Everest ascent, including his climb of Cho Oyu.

Further Exploration

Related Information

For more context on high-altitude mountaineering achievements, you may find the following resource relevant:

  • List of Mount Everest records (opens in new tab)

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References

References

  1.  Amputee Lauded, Criticized for Everest Climbย : NPR
A full list of references for this article are available at the Mark Inglis Wikipedia page

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Disclaimer

Important Notice

This page was generated by an Artificial Intelligence and is intended for informational and educational purposes only. The content is based on a snapshot of publicly available data from Wikipedia and may not be entirely accurate, complete, or up-to-date.

This is not professional advice. The information provided on this website is not a substitute for professional advice regarding mountaineering, extreme sports, medical conditions, or personal resilience. Always consult with qualified professionals for specific guidance related to your circumstances. Never disregard professional advice or delay in seeking it because of something you have read on this website.

The creators of this page are not responsible for any errors or omissions, or for any actions taken based on the information provided herein.