Charting Alta California
An academic exploration into the pivotal Spanish journey that mapped California's coast and shaped its colonial future.
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Overview
First European Interior Exploration
The Portolá expedition, a Spanish voyage of exploration conducted between 1769 and 1770, marks the inaugural recorded European exploration of the interior regions of what is now California. This significant undertaking was spearheaded by Gaspar de Portolá, who served as the governor of Las Californias, a vast Spanish colonial province encompassing present-day California, Baja California, and other territories within modern Mexico and the United States.
Asserting Spanish Claims
The primary impetus behind the expedition was to survey Alta California and unequivocally assert the Spanish Crown's territorial claims in these largely unexplored and disputed Pacific coastal regions of North America. Lasting 195 days, from July 14, 1769, to January 24, 1770, the expedition's success was instrumental in the subsequent founding of Alta California, thereby solidifying Spain's presence and influence in the area.
Key Participants
The expedition comprised a contingent of 74 men, a diverse group essential for its multifaceted objectives. Notable participants included Governor Gaspar de Portolá himself, the revered Franciscan missionary Junípero Serra, members of the Free Company of Volunteers of Catalonia, and other Franciscan missionaries. Their collective efforts laid the groundwork for future Spanish colonization and evangelization in the region.
Background
Early Claims and Neglect
The territory now known as California was initially claimed by the Spanish Empire in 1542 through the right of discovery by Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo, who explored the Pacific coast as far north as 42 degrees latitude. This claim was later affirmed by the United States in the 1819 Adams–Onís Treaty. However, competing claims emerged, notably from England in 1579 by Francis Drake, who sailed the trans-Pacific route and explored the California coast near Cape Mendocino and Point Reyes.
Jesuit Expulsion and Portolá's Appointment
A pivotal shift occurred in 1767 when Charles III of Spain decreed the expulsion of the Jesuit order from all Spanish territories. Gaspar de Portolá, a distinguished Catalan military officer and colonial administrator, was subsequently appointed governor of the newly defined province of Las Californias. His immediate charge was to oversee the dispossession of the Jesuits and facilitate their replacement by Franciscan missionaries, who were tasked with establishing a new network of missions throughout the colony.
Strategic Imperatives for Exploration
By the late 1760s, the strategic importance of the Pacific coast of North America for maritime trade and geopolitical influence became acutely apparent to the Spanish Crown. The southward expansion of Russian strongholds from Alaska and the westward advance of the British in Canada posed direct threats to Spain's long-held, albeit loosely enforced, territorial claims. To counter these encroachments and establish a protective buffer zone, Charles III mandated the exploration and settlement of Alta California.
José de Gálvez, New Spain's visitador (inspector general), was tasked with organizing this critical exploratory expedition, placing Governor Portolá in overall command. The comprehensive plan envisioned a coordinated land-sea movement along the Pacific coast, with naval vessels providing vital logistical support and communication links to the land contingent led by Portolá.
Journey
The Sea Contingent
The initial phase of the expedition involved five distinct groups converging on San Diego from Baja California. Three of these groups traveled by sea, utilizing hastily constructed galleons from San Blas. These vessels were the San Carlos, captained by Vicente Vila; the San Antonio, under the command of Juan Pérez; and the San José, intended as a crucial supply ship. Unfortunately, the San José never reached its destination and was presumed lost at sea.
The Land Contingent
Concurrently, two land groups advanced northward from Baja California. Captain Fernando Rivera y Moncada led the first party, meticulously gathering horses and mules from the existing Catholic missions, ensuring their survival while providing essential transport for the expedition. Friar Juan Crespí, designated as the official diarist for the Franciscan missionaries, accompanied Rivera's group, departing from Velicatá on March 24.
Governor Portolá himself commanded the second land group, which commenced its journey from Loreto on March 9. Despite suffering from a chronic infection in his left foot and leg, which Portolá suspected to be cancerous, Junípero Serra insisted on joining this party as its chaplain and diarist. This group, including 25 leather-jacket soldiers, muleteers, artisans, and 44 Christian Indians, progressed at a slower pace due to the burden of livestock and supplies.
San Diego Rendezvous and Hardship
The sea and land contingents eventually converged in San Diego. The San Antonio arrived on April 11, followed by the San Carlos on April 29, 1769. The sea voyages had taken a severe toll, with many crew members incapacitated by scurvy. Upon landing, Lieutenant Pedro Fages, engineer Miguel Costansó, and mate Jorge Estorace, along with the few remaining healthy men, established a provisional camp and hospital tents, desperately attempting to care for the ailing. Daily fatalities reduced the sea expedition's strength significantly.
Captain Rivera's land column arrived on May 14, having covered 300 miles in 50 days without loss of life or illness, albeit with severely reduced rations. They relocated the camp inland, establishing a stockade that would later become the Presidio of San Diego. The arrival of Portolá and Serra's party on July 1, in relatively good health and with abundant supplies, completed the reunification. However, the dire condition of the sea crews forced Portolá to dispatch the San Antonio back to San Blas for reinforcements, leaving Serra to found Mission San Diego de Alcalá.
Monterey
The Elusive Port
Following a period of recuperation, Portolá's party, now comprising 74 men, recommenced their northward march on July 14, 1769. Their objective was to locate Sebastián Vizcaíno's fabled port of Monterey by land. Despite reaching Monterey Bay on September 30, the expedition members, including their scouts, failed to recognize it. The bay did not align with Vizcaíno's grand descriptions, and the anticipated supply ship, the San José, was conspicuously absent, having been lost at sea. This misidentification significantly impacted the expedition's morale, which was already waning due to the increasing prevalence of scurvy among the men.
Unintended Discovery of San Francisco Bay
Continuing their journey northward in search of the elusive Monterey, the expedition reached the headlands near present-day Moss Beach by October 30. From this vantage point, they observed the Farallon Islands and Drakes Bay, leading some to believe they had indeed bypassed Monterey. Sergeant José Francisco Ortega, leading a scouting party, encountered a vast, previously unidentified bay that blocked their northern advance—what is now known as San Francisco Bay. While Ortega's scouts explored parts of its western and eastern shores, it was Friar Juan Crespí who, upon viewing the expansive bay from a hilltop, fully comprehended its strategic significance, describing it as "a very large and fine harbor, such that not only all the navy of our Most Catholic Majesty but those of all Europe could take shelter in it."
The Arduous Return
On November 11, Portolá convened an officers' council, which unanimously concluded that they had indeed overshot Monterey and that a return to San Diego was imperative. The arduous journey back south began, marked by severe food shortages that forced the men to subsist on seagulls and pelicans. On November 30, a group of Rumsen Indians offered much-needed pinole and seeds, providing temporary relief. Despite the hardships, including cold weather and snow, the expedition reached San Diego on January 24, 1770. Remarkably, all but five men (who had deserted) survived the 1,200-mile, six-month trek, having charted San Francisco Bay and numerous other critical locations. Junípero Serra, however, expressed his disbelief at their failure to recognize Monterey Bay, famously remarking, "You come from Rome without having seen the pope."
Second
Renewed Effort for Monterey
A second expedition was promptly organized in 1770 with the explicit goal of definitively locating Monterey Bay and establishing a permanent Spanish settlement. Governor Portolá again led a smaller overland party from San Diego, consisting of Pedro Fages with twelve Catalan volunteers, seven leather-jacket soldiers, two muleteers, five Baja Christian Indians, Portolá's servant, and Friar Juan Crespí. Captain Rivera, meanwhile, had returned to Baja California to procure additional supplies. This streamlined group departed San Diego on April 17, following their previous year's route with remarkable efficiency.
Recognition and Settlement
After a swift five-week journey with minimal rest, Portolá's land party arrived at Monterey Bay on May 24. This time, upon reaching Point Pinos and the hill where they had planted a cross the previous December, they found it adorned with feathers, broken arrows, and offerings of fresh sardines and meat, indicating recent Native American activity. Observing the bay teeming with seals and sea otters, Crespí unequivocally declared, "This is the port of Monterey without the slightest doubt." The realization that they had indeed overlooked Vizcaíno's described port the previous year was now clear.
Founding the Presidio and Mission
Concurrently, the San Antonio, carrying Junípero Serra, cartographer Miguel Costansó, and surgeon Pedro Prat, along with vital supplies, navigated challenging winds to finally enter Monterey Bay on May 31, joining Portolá's party. With the port now definitively identified, Portolá proceeded to establish the Presidio of Monterey on the very hill where the cross stood. Simultaneously, Serra founded Mission San Carlos Borromeo, which would later be relocated to Carmel. On July 9, 1770, Portolá and Costansó departed Monterey Bay aboard the San Antonio, returning to Baja California, having successfully achieved their mission of securing Spain's presence in Alta California.
Encounters
Peaceful Interactions
Throughout the Portolá expedition's extensive travels across Alta California, interactions with the indigenous Native American tribes were predominantly characterized by peace and mutual assistance. Reports from the expedition members consistently described the native peoples as welcoming and cooperative, frequently offering invaluable guidance and essential supplies to the Spanish explorers. This amicable relationship was a deliberate objective from the outset of the expedition.
Strategic Diplomacy
The Spanish expeditionary force carried a considerable quantity of trade goods, including glass beads and various trinkets, which occupied valuable space that could have been used for additional food or more critical supplies. This strategic decision underscored their commitment to fostering peaceful relations with the Native Americans. These items were exchanged for provisions and served as a means to pacify and engage with the local populations, demonstrating a clear intent for non-confrontational engagement.
Long-Term Objectives
Beyond immediate exploration, the overarching goals of the Spanish Crown for Alta California included the establishment of permanent settlements, the introduction of agricultural practices, and the conversion of the indigenous inhabitants to Christianity. Achieving these long-term objectives necessitated a foundation of peaceful coexistence, making the positive interactions during the Portolá expedition crucial for the subsequent colonial endeavors and the establishment of the mission system.
Legacy
Foundations of California
The Portolá expedition stands as a monumental event in the history of California, representing the first land-based exploration by Europeans of what is now the state. Its most celebrated discovery was undoubtedly San Francisco Bay, a strategic natural harbor of immense importance. However, nearly every location encountered and documented along its extensive route marked a "first" for European observation and mapping, fundamentally altering the geographical understanding of the region.
The Genesis of El Camino Real
Crucially, the expedition, in conjunction with the later de Anza expedition, established the foundational overland route northward to San Francisco. This path would evolve into the legendary El Camino Real (the Royal Road), a vital artery for the Spanish Empire's settlement of Alta California. This route facilitated the establishment of a chain of twenty-one Franciscan missions, which served as the nuclei for permanent settlements, fostered a cattle ranching economy, and played a central role in the conversion of thousands of Native Americans to Christianity.
Enduring Documentation
The expedition's daily movements and experiences are remarkably well-preserved through three surviving diaries penned by its members. These include Governor Portolá's own account, a detailed record by cartographer Miguel Costansó, and the most comprehensive and intricate diary kept by Friar Juan Crespí. These primary sources offer invaluable insights into the challenges, observations, and interactions of this pioneering journey. Following Portolá's return to New Spain in 1770, Pedro Fages, now promoted to captain, assumed the role of lieutenant governor of Alta California, headquartered at the Presidio of Monterey, and continued the tradition of exploration and documentation with his own diaries.
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References
References
- The Portolá Expedition of 1769-1770: Diary of Vicente Vila. Edited by Robert Selden Rose, University of California at Berkeley, 1911.
- James J. Rawls & Walton Bean. California: An Interpretive History, 8th edition. McGraw-Hill, 2003, p. 35.
- Zoeth Eldredge, "The March of Portolá and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco," p. 26.
- Don DeNevi and Noel Francis Moholy. JunÃpero Serra: The Illustrated Story of the Franciscan Founder of California's Missions. Harper & Row, 1985, p. 70.
- Maynard Geiger. The Life and Times of Fray JunÃpero Serra. Academy of American Franciscan History, 1959, vol. 1, pp. 210â211.
- Zoeth Eldredge, "The March of Portolá and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco," pp. 27â28.
- Zoeth Eldredge & Juan Manuel de Ayala, "The March of Portolá and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco," p. 28.
- Zoeth Eldredge & Juan Manuel de Ayala, "The March of Portolá and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco," p. 29.
- Maynard Geiger. The Life and Times of Fray JunÃpero Serra. Academy of American Franciscan History, 1959, vol. 1, p. 232.
- Zoeth Eldredge, "The March of Portolá and the Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco," p. 30.
- James J. Rawls & Walton Bean. California: An Interpretive History, 8th edition. McGraw-Hill, 2003, p. 36.
- Gary S. Breschini, "The Portolá Expedition of 1769," Monterey County Historical Society.
- James J. Rawls & Walton Bean. California: An Interpretive History, 8th edition. McGraw-Hill, 2003, pp. 36â37.
- Maynard Geiger. The Life and Times of Fray JunÃpero Serra. Academy of American Franciscan History, 1959, vol. 1, p. 237.
- Gaspar de Portolá's letter to a friend, Sept. 1773. Charles E. Chapman, A History of California: The Spanish Period, 1921, vol. 1, p. 227.
- Maynard Geiger. The Life and Times of Fray JunÃpero Serra. Academy of American Franciscan History, 1959, vol. 1, p. 246.
- Don DeNevi and Noel Francis Moholy. JunÃpero Serra: The Illustrated Story of the Franciscan Founder of California's Missions. Harper & Row, 1985, p. 99.
- Maynard Geiger. The Life and Times of Fray JunÃpero Serra. Academy of American Franciscan History, 1959, vol. 1, pp. 245â247.
- The Founding of Monterey, Monterey County Historical Society
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