The Toga: Vestment of Roman Identity and Status
An in-depth examination of the toga, the quintessential garment of Ancient Rome, exploring its multifaceted role in society, law, and ceremony.
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Defining the Toga
The Garment Itself
The toga was a distinctive garment of Ancient Rome, characterized by its semi-circular shape, typically measuring between 12 to 20 feet (3.7 to 6.1 meters) in length. Woven predominantly from white wool, it was worn draped over a tunic, serving as formal attire.
Roman Identity
Considered Rome's "national costume," the toga held immense symbolic value, representing Roman citizenship and its associated rights and responsibilities. Its use was generally restricted to male citizens, distinguishing them from foreigners, slaves, and those of lower social standing.
Evolution and Practicality
Originating possibly as a practical work garment, the toga evolved into a more voluminous and complex form, becoming increasingly impractical for daily activities. Its wear was largely confined to formal occasions and ceremonial duties, often replaced by more comfortable garments when circumstances permitted.
Varieties of the Toga
Toga Virilis
Also known as toga alba or toga pura, this plain white toga signified adult male citizenship. It was traditionally conferred upon young men around ages 14-17, marking their transition to legal adulthood.
Toga Praetexta
Distinguished by a broad purple stripe on its border, this toga was worn by magistrates, certain priests, and freeborn boys and girls before reaching adulthood. It symbolized legal protection and sanctity.
Toga Candida
A toga whitened with chalk, worn by candidates seeking public office. The term "candidate" itself derives from this practice, signifying purity and ambition.
Toga Pulla
A dark or dusky toga worn during periods of mourning or as a sign of protest or supplication. Its use was considered inappropriate during celebratory times.
Toga Picta
A richly dyed solid purple toga, often embroidered with gold imagery. It was reserved for triumphant generals, consuls, and emperors, signifying the highest status and authority.
Trabea
Associated with equestrian rank, this garment was white with decorative elements. Its exact form is debated, possibly a shorter toga or a type of cloak, but it signified a distinct social standing.
Laena
A heavy cloak, possibly a doubled toga, worn by certain priests. Its association with Etruscan priestly dress highlights potential cultural influences on Roman attire.
Origins and Influences
Early Roots
Roman tradition attributed the toga's origin to Romulus, the city's founder. Its form may have Etruscan roots, possibly deriving from the Etruscan tebenna, suggesting early cultural exchange and adaptation in Roman attire.
Greek Parallels
While perhaps similar in shape to the Greek himation or enkyklon, the toga acquired a unique significance as a marker of Roman citizenship, a status symbol unmatched by its Greek counterparts.
Symbolic Significance
Citizenship and Law
The toga was intrinsically linked to Roman citizenship, legally forbidding its wear by non-citizens, freedmen, slaves, or those deemed "infamous." It visually reinforced the social hierarchy and legal distinctions within Roman society.
Civic Duty and Status
Wearing the toga signified participation in civic life, public festivals, and official duties. The quality of the fabric and specific markings (like the purple stripe) communicated rank and status, making it a powerful tool for social signaling.
Masculinity and Order
The proper, dignified wear of the toga was associated with Roman masculinity and civic virtue. Its perceived impracticality contrasted with the ideal of disciplined, stately movement, reflecting Roman values of order and control.
Role in Civil Life
Social Stratification
Roman society was highly stratified. The toga, with its variations, visually demarcated social classes, from senators and magistrates to common citizens and equestrians, reinforcing the established order.
Public Display
In public spaces like theaters and forums, the toga was essential for displaying one's status. Seating arrangements and social interactions were governed by the visible presence and correct wearing of the toga.
Work and Leisure
Impracticality
The toga's bulk, weight, and complex draping made it entirely unsuitable for manual labor or strenuous activity. Its design inherently promoted a more sedentary, stately lifestyle.
Leisure and Display
The garment was best suited for formal processions, public debate, and social display. It became a symbol of otium (cultured leisure), an activity reserved for the elite, contrasting with the active pursuits of the working classes.
Patronage and Salutationes
Morning Rituals
Clients were expected to attend their patron's early morning salutatio. Wearing the appropriate toga correctly was crucial, as it demonstrated respect and adherence to social norms, impacting the patron-client relationship.
Retinue and Influence
A patron's influence was partly measured by the number and status of his clients. Clients formed the patron's retinue, providing political support and visibility, with their togate appearance underscoring the patron's standing.
The Orator's Garb
Performance and Presentation
For Roman orators, the toga was integral to their performance. Quintilian emphasized presenting a "virile and splendid" image, with dignified posture and appropriate toga draping, contributing to the persuasive impact of their speech.
Precise Draping
The correct draping of the toga was paramount. Specific instructions detailed how to avoid disarrangement, maintain the correct folds, and use gestures effectively, all while clad in the formal garment.
Public Morals and Tradition
Simplicity and Frugality
Roman moralists valued simplicity and frugality. Traditionalists criticized ostentatious or impractical variations of the toga, associating them with foreign decadence and a decline in Roman virtue.
Sartorial Offenses
Wearing the toga improperly—too loosely, over effeminate tunics, or made of excessively fine, transparent material—was seen as a corruption of Roman values. Conversely, the simple, traditional toga worn without shoes symbolized moral probity.
Military Context
Early Warfare
In Rome's early days, soldiers supposedly wore togas, adapted with the "Gabine cinch" for combat. Historical records show togas being supplied to troops, suggesting their use in military contexts, particularly for formal occasions.
Peace Over War
The phrase cedant arma togae ("let arms yield to the toga") symbolized the triumph of civilian authority and peace over military power. However, the military often retained precedence, with soldiers sometimes wearing togas to project an image of civilian authority.
Religious Observance
Ritual Attire
The toga, particularly the toga praetexta, was standard attire for many Roman priests. During rituals like sacrifices and prayers, priests covered their heads with a fold of the toga (capite velato), a distinctively Roman practice.
Founding Rites
The cinctus Gabinus, a method of tying the toga back, was used in specific religious contexts, such as the founding of new colonies, and was associated with early Etruscan priestly dress and Roman military traditions.
Materials and Craftsmanship
Wool and Weaving
Wool was the primary material for togas, valued for its perceived apotropaic qualities against misfortune. Wool-working was a highly respected domestic activity, with prominent women demonstrating virtue through their involvement.
Extravagance and Cost
The toga required a significant amount of fabric, making it an expensive garment. The use of costly materials like Tyrian purple and intricate weaving techniques further emphasized the wearer's wealth and status.
Draping and Styles
The Sinus and Umbo
The sinus (a loose over-fold) and umbo (a pouch-like fold) developed in the Imperial era, aiding in securing the toga but also increasing its complexity and volume.
Complex Forms
Later Imperial periods saw highly complex styles like the toga contabulata ("banded toga"), featuring broad, pleated panels. These elaborate forms required assistance to wear and careful maintenance, highlighting a move away from practicality.
The Toga's Decline
Loss of Popularity
Despite attempts by emperors like Augustus to enforce its wear, the toga was never truly popular due to its impracticality. The extension of citizenship and changing fashion trends accelerated its abandonment among the general populace.
Vestige of Elite Status
While fading from common use, the toga persisted as the formal attire of the senatorial elite for official duties. However, with the decline of centralized Roman governance, it eventually disappeared from use in the successor kingdoms of Europe.
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References
References
- Vout 1996, p. 215 (Vout cites Servius, In Aenidem, 1.281 and Nonius, 14.867L for the former wearing of togas by women other than prostitutes and adulteresses).
- Edmondson 2008, p. 26; Dolansky 2008, pp. 55â60.
- Edmondson 2008, p. 26. Not all modern scholarship agrees that girls wore the toga praetexta; see McGinn 1998, p. 160, note 163).
- Livy, XXVII.8,8 and XXXIII.42 (as cited by The Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities).
- Edmondson 2008, pp. 26, 29; Koortbojian 2008, pp. 80â83; Dewar 2008, pp. 225â227.
- Edmondson 2008, pp. 26â27; Dewar 2008, pp. 219â234.
- Edmondson 2008, p. 29; this lost work survives in fragmentary form through summary and citation by later Roman authors.
- Sebesta 2001, pp. 13, 222, 228, 47, note 5, citing Macrobius, 1.6.7â13, 15â16.
- Peruzzi 1980, p. 87, citing Artemidorus, 2.3. The usual form of Rome's Arcadian-origins myth has Argos, not Arcadia, as Temenus's ancestral home.
- Artemidorus 2020, p. 254, commentary on Artemidorus's use of tÄbennos in 2.3.6.
- Peruzzi 1980, pp. 89â90; Peruzzi 1975, pp. 137â143.
- This and other problems in identification are discussed in Beard 2007, pp. 306â308 and endnotes.
- On coming of age, he also gave his protective bulla into the care of the family Lares.
- Bradley 2011, pp. 189, 194â195; Dolansky 2008, pp. 53â54; Sebesta 2001, p. 47.
- Olson 2008, pp. 141â146: A minority of young girls seem to have used the praetexta, perhaps because their parents embraced the self-conscious revivalism typified in Augustan legislation and mores.
- Women probably sat or stood at the very back â apart from the sacred Vestals, who had their own box at the front.
- Stone 2001, pp. 43, note 59, citing Martial, 10.74.3, 11.24.11 and 4.66.
- Croom 2010, p. 53, citing Horace, Epodes, 4.8.
- Stone 2001, p. 17, citing Juvenal, Satires, 3.171â172, Martial, 10.47.5.
- Vout 1996, pp. 205â208: Contra Goldman's description of Roman clothing, including the toga, as "simple and elegant, practical and comfortable" in Goldman 2001, p. 217.
- Cash-strapped or debtor citizens with a respectable lineage might have to seek patronage from rich freedmen, who ranked as inferiors and non-citizens.
- George 2008, pp. 101, 103â106, slaves were considered as chattels, and owed their master absolute, unconditional submission.
- Edmondson 2008, p. 24; George 2008, pp. 100â102.
- Edmondson 2008, pp. 24, 36â37, citing Dio Cassius, 71.35.4 and Suetonius, Lives.
- Stone 2001, p. 16: Some modern sources consider exigua as a republican type, others interpret it as poetic.
- Edmondson 2008, pp. 33, citing Suetonius, Augustus, 40.5, 44.2, and Cassius Dio, 49.16.1.
- Stone 2001, p. 39, noted 9, citing Pliny the Elder, Natural History, 8.74.195.
- Olson 2008, p. 151, note 18, citing Pliny's account of an equestrian statue to the legendary, early Republican heroine.
- Keith 2008, pp. 197â198; Sebesta 2001, p. 53.
- Dugan 2005, pp. 61â65, citing Cicero's Ad Pisonem (Against Piso).
- Scullard 1980, p. 455: "[...] the Gabine robe (cinctus Gabinus) was worn by Roman officials as a sacred vestment on certain occasions."
- Servius, note to Aeneid 7.612; see also Bonfante 2009, p. 185 and Glinister 2009, p. 197.
- In reality, she was the female equivalent of the romanticised citizen-farmer: see Hin 2014, p. 153 and Shaw 2014, pp. 195â197.
- Culham 2014, pp. 153â154, citing Suetonius, Life of Augustus, 73.
- Sebesta 2001, pp. 43, note 59, citing Martial, 10.74.3, 11.24.11 and 4.66.
- Modern reconstructions have employed applied panels of fabric, pins, and hidden stitches to achieve the effect; the underlying structure of the original remains unknown.
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