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Herat Unveiled

A scholarly expedition through Afghanistan's ancient heart, delving into its profound historical, cultural, and geopolitical significance.

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What is Herat?

A Strategic Oasis City

Herat, historically known by names such as Hira, Harew, Haraiva, and Horeiva, is a vital oasis city and the third-largest urban center in Afghanistan.[1] As of 2020, its estimated population stood at 574,276, growing to approximately 592,902 by 2021.[2] It serves as the provincial capital of Herat Province, strategically positioned south of the Paropamisus Mountains in the fertile valley of the Hari River, in the western part of the nation.[1]

Crossroads of Civilizations

This ancient city has long been a critical nexus on the historic Silk Road, connecting West Asia, Central Asia, and South Asia.[3] Its strategic location has cemented its role as a regional hub in Afghanistan's western territories. Herat's rich heritage dates back to Avestan times, and it was traditionally celebrated for its wine production.[4]

The Pearl of Khorasan

During the medieval period, Herat ascended to prominence as one of the most significant cities within Greater Khorasan, earning the esteemed moniker "The Pearl of Khorasan."[5] Its historical landscape is adorned with numerous iconic sites, including the formidable Herat Citadel and the majestic Musalla Complex. In 2021, Herat was officially announced for consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognizing its unparalleled cultural and historical value.[6]

Historical Epochs

Ancient Foundations

Herat's origins are deeply rooted in antiquity, though its precise founding date remains elusive. Under the Achaemenid Empire (550–330 BC), the region was known as Haraiva, and in classical texts, as Areia. The Zoroastrian Avesta refers to it as Haroiva. These names are derived from the local Hari River, meaning "with velocity."[7] Herodotus famously described Herat as "the breadbasket of Central Asia." Alexander the Great captured the Arian capital, Artacoana, in 330 BC, subsequently rebuilding the town and constructing its citadel.[8]

  • **Achaemenid Empire (550–330 BC):** Known as Haraiva, a vital satrapy.
  • **Alexander's Conquest (330 BC):** Artacoana, the Arian capital, was captured and rebuilt.
  • **Seleucid Empire:** Herat became part of this Hellenistic realm.
  • **Parthian Empire (167 BC):** Incorporated into the Parthian domain.
  • **Sasanian Period (226–652 AD):** Referred to as Harēv and Hariy, it was a crucial strategic point in conflicts with the Chionites and Hephthalites. A Christian community with a bishop was present by 430 AD.[9]

Islamic Ascendancy

The Arab invasion in the mid-7th century marked a pivotal shift. Despite initial resistance from Hephthalite tribal lords, Herat eventually submitted to Arab forces. It was one of the twelve capital towns of the Sasanian Empire at the time of the Arab armies' arrival in Khorasan in the 650s.[10] The city experienced several rebellions and reconquests. Notably, the Tang dynasty of China briefly claimed suzerainty over Herat between 659–661 AD, marking its westernmost historical reach.[11] In 870, Ya'qub ibn al-Layth al-Saffar, founder of the Saffarid dynasty, conquered Herat, bringing it firmly under Islamic rule.[12]

Medieval Golden Age

Herat truly flourished during the medieval era, particularly under the Ghurid dynasty in the 12th century. Contemporary accounts describe a vibrant city boasting "359 colleges, 12,000 shops all fully occupied, 6,000 bath-houses," alongside numerous caravanserais and mills.[13] It became a significant center for metal goods production, especially bronze adorned with precious metal inlays. The Great Mosque of Herat, a testament to this era's architectural prowess, was constructed by Ghiyasuddin Ghori in 1201.[13]

  • **Samanid Dynasty (875–999):** Herat was a key city, serving as a model for later administrations.
  • **Ghaznavid Era (998 onwards):** Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni took control, and Herat was one of six Ghaznavid mints.
  • **Seljuk Empire (1040):** Briefly captured Herat.
  • **Mongol Invasions (1222):** Devastating sieges, with one account reporting the slaughter of 1.6 million inhabitants.[14]
  • **Kartid Dynasty (1244–1381):** Rebuilt the city, becoming great patrons of arts and literature, solidifying Herat's reputation as the "pearl of Khorasan." Rumi himself praised Herat's beauty.[13]
  • **Timurid Renaissance (1380–1506):** Under Timur and later Shahrokh and Sultan Husayn Bayqara, Herat became the empire's capital, a hub of intellectual and artistic life, often compared to Florence during the Italian Renaissance. This period saw extensive building, including the Musallah Complex and Gawhar Shad Madrasa, and a flourishing tradition of miniature painting.[15]
  • **Safavid Dynasty (1510–1709):** Herat became an important provincial capital; Shah Abbas the Great was born here, and it was referred to as "the greatest of the cities of Iran."[16]

Modern Transformations

The early 18th century saw Herat under Abdali Afghan rule. Following Nader Shah's death in 1747, Ahmad Shah Durrani incorporated it into the Durrani Empire.[17] Herat experienced periods as an independent city-state and faced multiple Qajar Iranian invasions before its final incorporation into Afghanistan in 1863.[18] The 20th century brought further upheaval, including the dynamiting of the Musalla of Gawhar Shah during the Panjdeh incident to prevent its use by Russian forces.[19] The city was a stronghold of Saqqawist resistance in the Afghan Civil War (1928–1929).[20]

  • **Soviet-Afghan War Era (1960s-1980s):** Herat Airport was built by U.S. engineers and later used by Soviet forces. The city saw a significant Soviet advisory presence.
  • **1979 Herat Uprising:** A major rebellion against the Khalq communist regime, resulting in thousands of civilian deaths and severe damage to the city.[21]
  • **Post-Soviet Era (1990s):** Ismail Khan, a leading mujahideen commander, governed Herat Province after the communist collapse.
  • **Taliban Rule (1995-2001):** The city was captured by the Taliban, who imposed strict laws, leading to protests and a curfew.[22]
  • **Post-2001:** Following the U.S. invasion, Ismail Khan returned to power. The International Security Assistance Force (ISAF) established bases, and security responsibility transitioned to Afghan forces in 2011.[23]
  • **2021 Taliban Offensive:** Herat was captured by the Taliban on August 12, 2021.[24]

Geography & Climate

Cold Semi-Arid Environment

Herat experiences a cold semi-arid climate (Köppen climate classification BSk). Precipitation levels are notably low, with most rainfall occurring during the winter months. Despite being approximately 240 meters (790 feet) lower in elevation than Kandahar, Herat's summer climate is more temperate, and the overall year-round climate is generally agreeable, though winter temperatures can be comparatively low.[25]

Seasonal Wind Patterns

A distinctive climatic feature of Herat is the strong northwest wind that prevails from May to September. Winters are typically mild, with snow melting relatively quickly and not persisting long even on the surrounding mountains. The eastern stretches of the Hari River, including its rapids, freeze solid in winter, allowing for travel across its surface as if it were a road.[25]

Climatic Data Overview

The following table provides a detailed overview of Herat's climate data, reflecting average conditions between 1958 and 1983, highlighting temperature extremes, precipitation, humidity, and sunshine hours.

Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 24.4
(75.9)
27.6
(81.7)
31.0
(87.8)
37.8
(100.0)
39.7
(103.5)
44.6
(112.3)
50.7
(123.3)
42.7
(108.9)
39.3
(102.7)
37.0
(98.6)
30.0
(86.0)
26.5
(79.7)
50.7
(123.3)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 9.1
(48.4)
11.9
(53.4)
17.9
(64.2)
24.0
(75.2)
29.6
(85.3)
35.0
(95.0)
36.7
(98.1)
35.1
(95.2)
31.4
(88.5)
25.0
(77.0)
17.8
(64.0)
12.0
(53.6)
23.8
(74.8)
Daily mean °C (°F) 2.9
(37.2)
5.5
(41.9)
10.2
(50.4)
16.3
(61.3)
22.1
(71.8)
27.2
(81.0)
29.8
(85.6)
28.0
(82.4)
22.9
(73.2)
16.1
(61.0)
8.8
(47.8)
4.7
(40.5)
16.2
(61.2)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) −2.9
(26.8)
−0.6
(30.9)
3.8
(38.8)
9.1
(48.4)
13.3
(55.9)
18.2
(64.8)
21.2
(70.2)
19.2
(66.6)
13.2
(55.8)
7.4
(45.3)
1.0
(33.8)
−1.4
(29.5)
8.5
(47.2)
Record low °C (°F) −26.7
(−16.1)
−20.5
(−4.9)
−13.3
(8.1)
−2.3
(27.9)
0.8
(33.4)
9.7
(49.5)
13.3
(55.9)
8.4
(47.1)
1.3
(34.3)
−5.6
(21.9)
−12.8
(9.0)
−22.7
(−8.9)
−26.7
(−16.1)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 51.6
(2.03)
44.8
(1.76)
55.1
(2.17)
29.2
(1.15)
9.8
(0.39)
0.0
(0.0)
0.0
(0.0)
0.0
(0.0)
0.0
(0.0)
1.7
(0.07)
10.9
(0.43)
35.8
(1.41)
238.9
(9.41)
Average rainy days 6 8 8 7 2 0 0 0 0 1 3 5 40
Average snowy days 2 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 6
Average relative humidity (%) 72 69 62 56 45 34 30 30 34 42 55 67 50
Mean monthly sunshine hours 149.3 153.5 202.5 235.7 329.6 362.6 378.6 344.8 323.2 274.0 235.0 143.1 3,131.9

Places of Interest

Historic Monuments

Herat is home to a wealth of historical monuments that reflect its layered past and architectural grandeur. These sites are not merely relics but living testaments to the city's enduring cultural significance.

  • Herat Citadel (Qala Ikhtyaruddin or Arg): An ancient fortress with a history spanning over two millennia, rebuilt by Alexander the Great and later by Timurid rulers. It now houses the Herat Museum.[26]
  • Musalla Complex: A grand Islamic religious complex, though much of it was dynamited in the 19th century. It originally included five minarets, several mausoleums, mosques, and madrasas. Emergency preservation work has been undertaken to stabilize remaining structures.[19]
  • Musalla Minarets of Herat: Iconic towering structures, some of which are still standing despite centuries of conflict and neglect. UNESCO and Afghan authorities are actively working to stabilize the remaining minarets, such as the Fifth Minaret, which are threatened by modern traffic vibrations.[27]

Sacred Sites & Repositories

The city's spiritual and intellectual heritage is preserved in its numerous mosques, mausoleums, and museums, each telling a unique story of faith, scholarship, and art.

  • Jumu'ah Mosque (Friday Mosque of Herat): One of Afghanistan's oldest and most significant mosques, built by Ghiyasuddin Ghori in 1201.[13]
  • Mausoleum of Gawhar Shad: The tomb of the influential Timurid queen, part of the Musalla Complex, which has undergone preservation efforts.[19]
  • Mausoleum of Khwajah Abdullah Ansari: A shrine dedicated to the renowned 11th-century Persian Sufi poet and mystic, rebuilt by Shahrokh around 1425.[13]
  • Tomb of Jami: The resting place of Nur ud-Din Jami, a celebrated 15th-century Persian Sufi poet.
  • Herat Museum: Located within the Herat Citadel, it houses artifacts reflecting the region's vast history.
  • Jihad Museum: Dedicated to the history of the Afghan resistance.
  • Jewish Cemetery: A remnant of Herat's ancient Jewish community, with conservation work approved for the Yu Aw Synagogue in the old city.[28]

Urban Spaces & Education

Beyond its ancient core, Herat offers modern amenities and educational institutions, reflecting its ongoing development and commitment to learning.

  • Neighborhoods: Key areas include Shahr-e Naw (Downtown), Welayat (Office of the governor), Qol-Ordue (Army's HQ), Farqa (Army's HQ), Darwaze Khosh, Chaharsu, Pul-e Rangine, Sufi-abad, New-abad, Pul-e malaan, Thakhte Safar, Howz-e-Karbas, Baramaan, Darwaze-ye Qandahar, Darwaze-ye Iraq, and Darwaze Az Kordestan.
  • Parks: Park-e Taraki, Park-e Millat, and Khane-ye Jihad Park provide green spaces for residents.
  • Herat University: A prominent institution of higher education, contributing to the intellectual life of the city.
  • Foreign Consulates: India, Iran, and Pakistan maintain consulates in Herat, underscoring its regional importance for trade, military, and political ties. The U.S. also established a consulate to strengthen relations and support development.[29]

Demographic Insights

Population and Ethnic Composition

Herat's population was estimated at 592,902 in 2021, making it a significant urban center in Afghanistan.[2] The city and its province are characterized by a diverse ethnic makeup. According to a 2023 CSSF Report, Pashtuns constitute the majority, accounting for 40% of the provincial population, alongside notable Tajik, Hazara, and Uzbek minorities.[30]

Linguistic Landscape

Persian is the indigenous language of Herat, with the local dialect, known as Herātī, belonging to the Khorāsānī cluster of Persian dialects. This dialect shares strong similarities with those spoken in eastern Iran, particularly Mashhad and Khorasan Province, which borders Herat. Herātī serves as the lingua franca within the city. Pashto, the native language of the Pashtuns, is also widely understood, with the local variant being a form of Western Pashto, common in Kandahar and other parts of southern and western Afghanistan.[31]

Religious Affiliations & Historical Communities

Religiously, Shia Islam is practiced by the majority in Herat, while Sunni Muslims constitute a minority.[32] Historically, Herat was home to an ancient Jewish community, with approximately 280 families residing there in 1948. Most of this community emigrated to Israel that year, and by 1992, the community had vanished. Four former synagogues in the city's old quarter, neglected for decades, were renovated by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture in the late 2000s, with three converted into schools and nurseries. In 2022, the Taliban government approved conservation work on the Yu Aw Synagogue, and the Jewish cemetery is actively maintained.[28]

Economy & Infrastructure

Air Transport

Herat International Airport, originally constructed by U.S. engineers in the 1960s, played a significant role during the Soviet-Afghan War. Although bombed in late 2001 during Operation Enduring Freedom, it was subsequently rebuilt and upgraded. As of August 2014, the airport offered regularly scheduled direct flights to international destinations such as Delhi, Dubai, and Mashhad, as well as various domestic airports within Afghanistan, including Kabul.[33]

Rail Development

Proposals for rail connections to and from Herat have a long history, dating back to "The Great Game" of the 19th century and recurring in the 1970s and 1980s. Concrete progress began in 2002 when Iran and the Asian Development Bank announced funding for a railway linking Torbat-e Heydarieh in Iran to Herat. This project evolved into a 191 km (119 mi) railway from Khaf, Iran, designed for both cargo and passengers, with construction on the Iranian side commencing in 2006. Work on the Afghan side is underway, with an estimated completion by March 2018, and there is potential for further extension across Afghanistan to Sher Khan Bandar.[34]

Road Networks

Herat is a crucial node in Afghanistan's road network, facilitating regional and international trade and connectivity. The AH76 highway connects Herat to Maymana and the northern regions. The AH77 extends eastward towards Chaghcharan and northward to Mary in Turkmenistan. Furthermore, Highway 1, an integral part of the Asian Highway AH1, links Herat to Mashhad in Iran to the northwest and southward via the Kandahar–Herat Highway to Delaram. These roads are strategically important, with the route to Iran through Islam Qala generating substantial customs revenue for Afghanistan.[35]

Sports & Recreation

Professional Teams

Herat is home to professional sports teams that compete at national levels, fostering local talent and community engagement in athletics.

Club League Sport Venue Established
Hindukush Stars Shpageeza Cricket League Cricket Herat Cricket Ground 2021
Toofan Harirod F.C. Afghan Premier League Football Herat Stadium 2012

Sporting Venues

The city provides dedicated facilities for sports, supporting both professional and amateur athletic pursuits.

  • Herat Cricket Ground: A venue for cricket matches, including those of the Hindukush Stars.
  • Herat Stadium: Primarily used for football, serving as the home ground for Toofan Harirod F.C.

Notable Figures

Rulers & Statesmen

Herat has been the birthplace or a significant center for numerous influential rulers and political figures who shaped the course of regional and imperial history.

  • Tahir ibn Husayn: 9th-century Abbasid Caliphate army general and founder of the Tahirid dynasty.
  • Ghiyasuddin Muhammad: Emperor of the Ghurid dynasty (1163–1202).
  • Mīrzā Shāhrūkh bin Tīmur Barlas: Emperor of the Timurid dynasty of Herat, son of Timur.
  • Abu Sa'id Mirza: Ruler of the Timurid Empire in the mid-15th century.
  • Mīrzā Husseyn Bāyqarāh: Emperor of the Timurid dynasty of Herat.
  • Shāh Abbās The Great: Emperor of Safavid Persia, born in Herat.
  • Ahmad Shah Durrani: Founder of the Durrani Empire.
  • Emir Dost Mohammad Khan: Founder of the Barakzai dynasty, buried in Herat.
  • Ismail Khan: Former governor of Herat Province and Minister of Water and Energy.

Poets & Scholars

The city has been a beacon of intellectual and artistic endeavor, producing or hosting many celebrated poets, scientists, and religious scholars whose works continue to resonate.

  • Asjadi: 10th-11th century royal Persian poet at the Ghaznavid court.
  • Khwājah Abdullāh al-Herawi al-Ansārī: Influential 11th-century Persian Sufi poet.
  • Nūr ud-Dīn Jāmī: Renowned 15th-century Persian Sufi poet.
  • Nizām ud-Din ‘Alī Shīr Herawi: Famous poet and scientist of the Timurid era.
  • Abu Mansur Muvaffak Harawi: 10th-century Persian physician.
  • Abolfadl Harawi: 10th-century astronomer, originally from Herat.
  • Taftazani: 14th-century Muslim polymath.
  • Ustād Kamāl ud-Dīn Behzād: Considered the greatest of medieval Persian painters.
  • Mir Ali Heravi: Prominent 16th-century Persian calligrapher.
  • Nadia Anjuman: (1981–2005) contemporary poet writing in Dari.

Athletes & Other Figures

Herat's influence extends to modern sports and other significant individuals who have left their mark.

  • Nadia Nadim: Afghan-Danish football player, recognized as one of the most influential Afghan female footballers.
  • Gowhar Shad: Influential wife of Shāh Rūkh Mīrzā, known for her patronage of architecture.
  • Zablon Simintov: Believed to be the last remaining Jew to have lived in Afghanistan.
  • Alka Sadat: Film producer born in Herat.
  • Sonita Alizadeh: Rapper and activist.

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References

References

  1.  Abu Ja’far Muḥammad ibn Jarir Ṭabari, Taʾrikh al-rosul wa’l-moluk, pp. 2904-6
  2.  The Encyclopaedia of Islam, Brill Publishers, Vol.3: H-Iram, 1986, Leiden, pp. 177
  3.  Moqaddasi (Maqdesi), Aḥsan al-taqāsim fi maÊ¿rifat al-aqālim, ed. M. J. de Goeje, Leiden, 1906, p. 307;
  4.  Afghanistan: The First Five Years of Soviet Occupation, by J. Bruce Amstutz – Page 133 & 145
  5.  A good description of the sites, including former afgahani jews who lived there, and of some locals, could be seen at "Quest for the lost tribes", a film by Simcha Jacobovici.
A full list of references for this article are available at the Herat Wikipedia page

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