The Art of the Mille-feuille

🕰️ Early Antecedents

The conceptual lineage of the mille-feuille can be traced to 17th-century French and 18th-century English cookbooks, which featured precursor recipes for layered cakes. The earliest documented use of the name mille-feuille itself appears in 1733, attributed to French chef Vincent La Chapelle, who described its preparation with jam and marmalade fillings.

👑 Refinement and Popularization

The 18th century saw further mentions, including a 1749 recipe by Menon, which detailed a construction involving five baked puff pastry layers, jam, and an icing finish. During the Napoleonic era, Parisian pastry shops are noted to have sold the cake, solidifying its association with the name "Napoleon." By the 19th century, pastry cream became a more common filling, notably in a recipe by Urbain Dubois.

🌍 International Influence

Alan Davidson, in the Oxford Companion to Food, suggests a possible origin or significant development in Szeged, Hungary, where a caramel-coated variant is known as 'Szegediner Torte'. This highlights the pastry's journey and adaptation across different culinary landscapes.

🇦🇷 Argentina & Uruguay

Known as Rogel, this variant features multiple layers of puff pastry interspersed with dulce de leche. It is often crowned with meringue and is a popular choice for celebrations, including weddings.

🇦🇺 Australia & New Zealand

Commonly referred to as a 'vanilla slice' or 'custard slice', this version typically uses two layers of pastry with a gelatin-set pastry cream. Passionfruit icing is a frequent topping, particularly in New Zealand, where it may also be called a 'custard square'.

🇧🇦 Balkan Countries

Across the Balkans, similar pastries are found under names such as krempita (Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina), kremna rezina or kremšnita (Slovenia, Croatia), and krémeš (Slovakia). These often feature a distinct custard filling and are widely enjoyed.

🇧🇪 Belgium & Netherlands

The tompouce or tompoes is the Dutch and Belgian equivalent. In the Netherlands, it is an iconic pastry, typically featuring two layers of pastry with a pink icing glaze, though orange is used during national festivities. The cartoon character Tom Puss is named after it.

🇨🇦 Canada

In French-speaking Canada, it is known as gâteau Napoléon, and in English-speaking regions as 'Napoleon slice'. Fillings commonly include custard, whipped cream, or both, with almond paste being a frequent addition. A Canadian adaptation even substitutes graham crackers for puff pastry.

🇨🇳 China (Mainland)

Mainland Chinese versions, also marketed as Napoleon, vary regionally. They often use rough puff pastry made with vegetable shortening and feature sponge cake and artificial buttercream fillings, differing from the traditional butter-based French preparation.

🇬🇷 Greece

In Greece, the pastry is transliterated as milfeille (μιλφέιγ). It typically uses cream filling between layers and is topped with whipped cream. The precise nature of the 'cream' filling warrants further scholarly clarification.

🇭🇰 Hong Kong

Hong Kong's 'Napoleon' pastry often incorporates buttercream, meringue, and walnuts, presenting a distinct flavor profile and texture combination.

🇭🇺 Hungary

Referred to as krémes, the Hungarian version includes variations like the francia krémes (French Napoleon), which is topped with whipped cream and caramel fondant.

🇮🇹 Italy

The Italian mille foglie shares similarities with the French original but often includes layers of sponge cake alongside puff pastry, complemented by pastry cream and garnishes like strawberries and shaved chocolate.

🇮🇷 Iran

Known as Shirini-ye Nâpeloni ('Napoleonic sweet pastry'), this Iranian variant features thin puff pastry, rose water, pistachios, and a saffron-infused whipped cream, often dusted with powdered sugar.

🇱🇹 Lithuania

The Lithuanian Napoleonas is a layered pastry often incorporating fruit fillings, such as wild cranberry jam, alongside pastry cream. Its association with celebrations and weddings suggests cultural significance.

🇲🇦 Morocco

In Morocco, the French name mille-feuille is commonly used, indicating consistent consumption and appreciation of the classic preparation.

🇵🇭 Philippines

The Filipino napoleones, particularly from Negros Island, consists of two to three layers filled with pastry cream or custard, topped with a sugar glaze. It is a popular pasalubong (souvenir gift).

🇵🇱 Poland

Officially named napoleonka, and sometimes kremówka, the Polish version features two pastry layers separated by a thick cream, finished with powdered sugar.

🇵🇹 Portugal

Portugal offers both mil-folhas (Lisbon) and napoleão (central/north). Variations include larger sizes, yellow-tinted icing, and alternative fillings like chantilly cream or quince cheese (marmelada).

🇷🇺 Russia

The Russian 'Napoleon' cake, popular since the 19th century, often has more layers than its French counterpart. Its history is intertwined with national celebrations, and modern versions may include Crimean almonds and a snow-like icing sugar topping.

🇿🇦 South Africa & Zimbabwe

In these regions, the pastry is commonly known as a 'custard slice', aligning with the nomenclature found in Australia and New Zealand.

🇪🇸 Spain

The Spanish milhojas are characterized by thin, crunchy puff pastry layers, often stacked much higher than traditional versions. Fillings vary from pastry cream to thick whipped cream.

🇸🇪 Nordic Countries

In Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, variations like the Napoleonbakelse, napoleonskage, and napoleonskake are popular. These typically combine whipped cream, custard, and jam, often topped with icing and currant jelly.

🇬🇧 United Kingdom

The UK commonly calls it a 'vanilla slice', 'cream slice', or 'custard slice'. These often feature just two pastry layers with a single thick filling, which may be pastry cream or whipped cream.

🇺🇸 United States

In the U.S., the 'Napoleon' typically comprises three pastry layers with pastry cream, finished with an icing glaze featuring a marbled or feathered pattern.

🇨🇴 Latin America

Latin American milhojas often feature multiple puff pastry layers topped with confectioner's sugar. Colombian versions specifically include pastry cream and arequipe (dulce de leche), showcasing regional flavor preferences.

📜 References