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Echoes of Wyam

An academic exploration into the profound history, geography, and cultural significance of the submerged Celilo Falls on the Columbia River, a site of immense indigenous heritage.

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What is Celilo?

A Sacred Confluence

Celilo Falls, known as Wyam in the Tenino language, meaning "echo of falling water" or "sound of water upon the rocks," was a pivotal tribal fishing ground on the Columbia River. Situated just east of the Cascade Mountains, straddling the modern border between Oregon and Washington, it encompassed a complex series of cascades, waterfalls, and vibrant native settlements. For an astonishing 15,000 years, Celilo stood as the oldest continuously inhabited community on the North American continent, a testament to its profound ecological and cultural significance.

A Vanished Landmark

The physical manifestation of Celilo Falls, along with its adjacent indigenous villages, was irrevocably altered in 1957. This transformation occurred with the completion of The Dalles Dam, which led to the submergence of these ancient features under the waters of Lake Celilo. Despite its physical disappearance, tribal leaders in 2019 initiated calls for the restoration of the falls, underscoring its enduring importance to indigenous communities and the ecological health of the Columbia River.

Geographic Context

Geographically, Celilo Falls was a segmented steep cascade, a natural marvel formed by the Columbia River's powerful flow through basalt narrows. Its location was not merely picturesque but strategically vital, serving as a natural bottleneck and a rich ecological zone that sustained millennia of human activity. The falls' coordinates are approximately 45.64945°N 120.97792°W, marking a site of immense historical and environmental consequence.

Geographic Dynamics

The Main Waterfall Complex

The primary waterfall system, known by various names including Celilo Falls, The Chutes, Great Falls, or Columbia Falls, comprised three distinct hydrological features: a cataract often referred to as Horseshoe Falls or Tumwater Falls, a deep eddy known as the Cul-de-Sac, and the principal river channel. These formations were sculpted by the Columbia River's persistent force as it navigated through constricted basalt narrows on its final trajectory toward the Pacific Ocean. While typically over a mile (1.6 km) wide, the river was dramatically compressed to a mere 140 feet (43 m) at this critical juncture.

The height and character of the falls were subject to significant seasonal fluctuations. During periods of low water, the vertical drop measured approximately 20 feet (6.1 m). Historical accounts, such as Modeste Demers' 1839 observations, describe not a singular fall but a multitude of cascades varying in depth and height, ranging from 3 to 15 feet. Conversely, during the spring freshet in June and July, the falls could be entirely submerged. Celilo Falls was globally recognized as the sixth-largest waterfall by volume and among the most substantial in North America, with an average annual flow of approximately 190,000 cubic feet per second (5,380 m³/s), escalating to as much as 1,240,000 cubic feet per second (35,113 m³/s) during flood events.

The Narrows and The Dalles

Celilo Falls represented the initial segment within a larger series of cascades and rapids collectively termed The Narrows or The Dalles, extending approximately 12 miles (19 km) downstream. Across this stretch, the river's elevation decreased by 82 feet (25 m) during high water and 63 feet (19 m) during low water periods.

  • Short Narrows: Located three miles (4.8 km) below Celilo Falls, this section, also known as Ten Mile Rapids or the Little (or Upper) Dalles, spanned about 1 mile (1.6 km) with a width of 250 feet (76 m).
  • Long Narrows: Ten miles (16 km) downstream from Celilo Falls, this stretch, also called Five Mile Rapids, the Big (or Lower) Dalles, or Grand Dalles, extended for approximately 3 miles (4.8 km), where the river channel dramatically constricted to just 75 feet (23 m).
  • Dalles Rapids: Immediately downstream, these rapids (or Wascopam to local natives) were about 1.5 miles (2.4 km) long, featuring a 15-foot (4.6 m) drop that early explorers frequently remarked upon for its tumultuous nature.

Historical accounts vividly describe these formidable sections. Ross Cox noted a three-mile "succession of boiling whirlpools," while explorer Charles Wilkes characterized it as "one of the most remarkable places upon the Columbia," estimating a 50-foot (15 m) drop over 2 miles (3.2 km). Alexander Ross, a fur trader, emphasized the river's "great impetuosity" and "foaming surges," declaring it impassable for any craft, even when submerged during floods.

A Deep History

Fishing and Trade Nexus

For an extraordinary 15,000 years, Celilo Falls served as an indispensable gathering point for indigenous peoples, a vibrant hub for both sustenance and commerce. Native communities meticulously constructed wooden platforms extending over the turbulent waters, employing dipnets and long spears to harvest the abundant salmon as they navigated the rapids and leaped over the falls. Historically, an estimated fifteen to twenty million salmon migrated through these falls annually, establishing Celilo as one of North America's most prolific fishing sites.

Strategically positioned at the cultural interface between Chinookan and Sahaptian-speaking peoples, Celilo Falls evolved into the epicenter of an expansive trading network that spanned the Pacific Plateau. Archaeological findings from the original village site reveal a diverse array of trade goods, indicating connections as far-reaching as the Great Plains, the Southwestern United States, and Alaska. This rich exchange fostered a cultural melting pot, as evidenced by numerous rock art drawings at the falls' head. The Lewis and Clark Expedition, upon their arrival in 1805, documented a "great emporium...where all the neighboring nations assemble," noting a population density unparalleled in their journey. Consequently, historians have aptly dubbed the Celilo area the "Wall Street of the West." The Wishram people inhabited the north bank, while the Wasco resided on the south, with the most intense bartering occurring at the Wishram village of Nix-luidix. Pinnipeds, including sea lions and seals, were also observed ascending the Columbia to Celilo Falls in pursuit of salmon.

Navigational Challenges

The Columbia River's seasonal flow profoundly influenced navigation through Celilo Falls. During late autumn, when water levels were low, the falls presented a formidable barrier, as encountered by Lewis and Clark. Conversely, in July 1811, David Thompson found high water levels that largely obscured the falls, facilitating a relatively smooth passage through the Columbia Gorge. Modeste Demers' 1839 account highlights this duality: the "chutes," terrifying at low water, became "smooth and still" during very high water, allowing voyageurs to rest.

The Long Narrows, ten miles below Celilo Falls, posed even greater navigational hazards, becoming impassable during high water and extremely perilous even for unloaded boats during autumn low water. Narcissa Whitman, in 1836, tragically reported over a hundred "white lives" lost at The Dalles. As American pioneers arrived in the 1840s and 1850s, many perished in the violent currents near Celilo while transporting wagons on wooden barges. In an effort to improve river navigation, the Army Corps of Engineers completed the 14-mile (23 km) Celilo Canal in 1915. This portage was designed to allow steamboats to bypass the turbulent falls. Despite initial enthusiasm, the canal saw minimal use and was entirely abandoned by 1919, underscoring the persistent challenges of taming the Columbia's powerful flow.

The Dam's Impact

The Drive for Hydropower

During the 1930s and 1940s, a surge in settlement in the Pacific Northwest fueled advocacy for a comprehensive system of hydroelectric dams along the Columbia River. Proponents argued that these dams would significantly enhance navigation for barge traffic, provide a consistent source of irrigation for agricultural expansion, generate crucial electricity for the burgeoning World War II defense industry, and mitigate the devastating effects of downriver floods, such as the 1948 destruction of Vanport, Oregon. The immense volume of water at Celilo Falls made The Dalles an exceptionally attractive location for a new dam in the strategic assessments of the Army Corps of Engineers. By 1943, an astounding 96 percent of the Columbia River's generated electricity was being channeled directly into war manufacturing, highlighting the critical role of hydropower in the national effort.

Treaty Rights and Compensation

Throughout this period of escalating dam construction, indigenous communities steadfastly maintained their ancestral fishing practices at Celilo, exercising rights guaranteed by the 1855 Treaties signed with the Yakama Nation, the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs, and the Walla Walla, Umatilla, and Cayuse tribes. These treaties explicitly safeguarded the tribes' ancient "right of taking fish at all usual and accustomed stations." In 1947, despite these treaty obligations, the federal government conducted Congressional hearings and concluded that the proposed dam at The Dalles would not infringe upon tribal fishing rights. Subsequently, a monetary settlement of $26.8 million was reached with the affected tribes, intended as compensation for the irreversible loss of Celilo Falls and other vital fishing sites along the Columbia River.

The Silence of the Falls

Construction of The Dalles Dam commenced in 1952 and was completed five years later. On March 10, 1957, a somber assembly of hundreds of observers witnessed the rising waters of Lake Celilo gradually engulf and silence the majestic falls. Fishing platforms were submerged, and the ancient village of Celilo disappeared beneath the artificial lake, marking the end of an age-old way of life for its inhabitants. Today, a small Native American community persists at the nearby Celilo Village, situated on a bluff overlooking the former site of the falls. A 2008 sonar survey conducted by the Army Corps of Engineers confirmed that the geological formations of Celilo Falls remain remarkably intact beneath the lake's surface, with "rocky outcrops, carved basins and channels that match aerial photographs from the 1940s," a poignant reminder of what lies beneath.

Enduring Legacy

Cultural Resonance

Despite its physical submergence, Celilo Falls retains an immeasurable cultural significance for indigenous peoples. As Ted Strong of the Intertribal Fish Commission eloquently articulated, "If you are an Indian person and you think, you can still see all the characteristics of that waterfall. If you listen, you can still hear its roar. If you inhale, the fragrances of mist and fish and water come back again." This profound connection was powerfully demonstrated in 2007 when three thousand individuals converged at Celilo Village to commemorate the 50-year anniversary of the falls' inundation, a poignant act of remembrance and cultural affirmation.

Literary and Artistic Echoes

The historical and cultural weight of Celilo Falls has resonated beyond indigenous communities, finding its way into significant works of American literature and art. In Ken Kesey's seminal novel, One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest, the narrator, Chief Bromden, hails from a native village near the waterfall, and his narrative includes a poignant encounter with government agents dispatched to appraise and negotiate for the land. Furthermore, renowned artist and architect Maya Lin has undertaken the creation of interpretive artwork at Celilo as part of the Confluence Project, an initiative designed to honor the historical and cultural significance of the Columbia River system, with her work scheduled for completion in 2019.

Calls for Restoration

Tribal Advocacy

In 2019, leaders from the Yakama and Lummi nations issued a compelling call for the restoration of Celilo Falls. Their advocacy is rooted in the assertion that indigenous peoples never consented to the submergence of the falls, a foundational grievance tied to broken treaties. They highlighted critical environmental concerns, noting that the river's temperature has progressively increased within the reservoir each year, contributing to a significant decline in vital salmon populations. Furthermore, they underscored that the dam's construction directly destroyed fishing sites explicitly guaranteed to the tribes through treaties established over 150 years prior.

Competing Interests

In response to the tribal calls for restoration, Northwest RiverPartners issued a statement emphasizing the continued importance of The Dalles Dam. Their position highlights the dam's crucial role in generating hydropower electricity, which is essential for sustaining ports and businesses throughout the region. This ongoing dialogue underscores the complex interplay between historical justice, environmental conservation, and contemporary economic needs in the management of the Columbia River and its invaluable natural resources.

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References

References

  1.  Noe, Katherine Schlick (2011). Something to Hold. New York, NY: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. ISBN 0547558139. p. 250: "(suh-lie-low)".
A full list of references for this article are available at the Celilo Falls Wikipedia page

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This page was generated by an Artificial Intelligence and is intended for informational and educational purposes only. The content is based on a snapshot of publicly available data from Wikipedia and may not be entirely accurate, complete, or up-to-date.

This is not professional historical or cultural advice. The information provided on this website is not a substitute for consulting primary historical sources, engaging with indigenous cultural experts, or seeking advice from qualified historians or ethnographers. Always refer to scholarly publications, tribal histories, and consult with recognized authorities for specific research or cultural understanding. Never disregard expert advice because of something you have read on this website.

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