Portobello's Coastal Chronicle

⚓ The 18th Century: Smugglers and Settlements

By the 18th century, the Figgate Muir area had become a favored haunt for seamen and smugglers, capitalizing on its coastal location. A pivotal moment occurred in 1742 when George Hamilton, a seaman who had served under Admiral Edward Vernon during the capture of Porto Bello, Panama, in 1739, constructed a cottage. He named it "Portobello Hut" in commemoration of this naval victory. This humble dwelling, located near the present-day High Street, marked the beginning of permanent settlement, with other houses emerging around it by 1753. The original cottage, later known as the Shepherd's Ha, stood until 1851.

🏭 Industrial Growth and Early Tourism

The mid-18th century saw significant industrial development. In 1763, the Figgate Whins were acquired by Baron Mure and subsequently feued to William Jameson. Jameson's discovery of a valuable clay bed led to the establishment of a brick and tile works, followed by an earthenware pottery factory. This industrial activity spurred population growth, transforming the area into a thriving village. By 1795, Portobello was already advertising bathing machines for hire, indicating its nascent role as a seaside resort, praised for its clear water and secluded beach.

👑 The 19th Century: Resort Status and Public Access

The 19th century solidified Portobello's reputation as a popular bathing resort. New salt-water baths, costing £5,000, were erected in 1807. The Portobello Sands also served as a drill ground for the Edinburgh Light Horse, where Sir Walter Scott famously completed *The Lay of the Last Minstrel* after a riding accident in 1802. A significant legal battle initiated by Sir William Rae in 1842 ensured public access to the beach, culminating in the demolition of private walls in 1849. This victory paved the way for the construction of the two-mile Promenade by Portobello Town Council in 1864, securing enduring public enjoyment of the shoreline. The town also saw further industrialization, producing bricks, glass, lead, paper, pottery, soap, and mustard.

🏙️ Amalgamation and Modernization

In 1833, Portobello was granted burgh status, sharing parliamentary representation with Leith and Musselburgh. However, its independent era concluded in 1896 when the Edinburgh Extension Act formally incorporated Portobello into the city of Edinburgh. The early 20th century brought further infrastructure, including the formidable Portobello Power Station (1923-1977) and the Portobello Baths (1898-1901), which notably included Turkish baths. A pleasure pier, designed by Sir Thomas Bouch, operated from 1871 until World War I, and the Edinburgh Marine Gardens offered various attractions in the early 1900s.

🛣️ Bus Services

Portobello is comprehensively served by Lothian Buses, offering extensive connectivity. The area benefits from eleven distinct bus services that link Portobello to various destinations, including Joppa, Eastfield, Musselburgh, Port Seton, Tranent, North Berwick, Fort Kinnaird, the Royal Infirmary, and Craigentinny. This robust network ensures convenient public transport options for residents and visitors alike. Historically, electric tramways operated by Edinburgh Corporation Transport Department served the area until they were replaced by diesel buses in November 1956.

🚂 Railway Connections

Portobello once enjoyed direct railway access, facilitating its growth as a resort. The first railway station, Portobello (E&DR), was operated by the Edinburgh and Dalkeith Railway from 1832 until 1846. It was subsequently replaced by the Portobello (NBR) railway station, managed by the North British Railway, which operated from 1846 until its closure in 1964 as part of the wider Beeching cuts, a significant restructuring of the British railway system.

💨 Hovercraft Experiments

In 2007, Portobello was the site of an experimental hovercraft service, providing a temporary link to Kirkcaldy in Fife for two weeks. Stagecoach Group expressed interest in establishing a regular service, recognizing the potential for rapid cross-Firth travel. However, these plans did not materialize due to the local authority's refusal of planning permission for the necessary infrastructure, and a proposed terminal in Leith, intended to be funded publicly, also failed to come to fruition.

🏗️ Evolution of Civic Spaces

As an independent burgh, Portobello had a clear ambition for its own civic center. The town council initially convened in rooms within Brighton Place and later at Rosefield House. The first purpose-built town hall, designed by David Bryce and erected in 1862, now serves as the Baptist Church on the High Street. This proved insufficient, leading to its replacement in 1877 by a new building designed by Robert Paterson, which currently functions as the Portobello Police Station.

✨ The Grand Town Hall

The Edinburgh Extension Act of 1895, which integrated Portobello into Edinburgh, included a commitment to construct a new town hall suitable for large public gatherings, capable of accommodating at least 800 people. This impressive structure, designed by City Architect James A. Williamson, was built on the site of Inverey House and officially opened in 1914. After being closed in June 2019 due to masonry and plasterwork issues, and subsequently put on the market for lease, a local community organization, Portobello Central, successfully negotiated its takeover. With significant capital investment of £350,000 from the Scottish Government, the Town Hall proudly reopened for business on June 1, 2023, under a 25-year lease from the City of Edinburgh Council, at a nominal rent of £1 per year, ensuring its future as a community asset.

🤝 Bellfield Community Centre

Another significant community hub is the Bellfield Community Centre, which was formerly the Bellfield Old Parish Church and Halls. The original church building, designed by William Sibbald, had its foundation stone laid in 1808 and opened for worship in 1810. Initially a Chapel of Ease for Duddingston Parish Church, it gained "quoad sacra" church status in 1834 and full independent parish status in 1861. In 2017, the Church of Scotland sold the property to the local community group Action Porty for £600,000, funded by the Scottish Land Fund and community efforts. It reopened in 2018 as the Bellfield Community Centre, transforming a historic religious site into a vibrant space for local activities and gatherings.

⛪ Enduring Edifices

Portobello is home to several significant buildings that contribute to its unique architectural and cultural landscape. These include the impressive St John the Evangelist RC Church, a prominent place of worship. The Bellfield Community Centre, formerly the Bellfield Church, stands as a testament to community-led preservation and adaptation. The George Cinema, a local landmark, continues to serve as a cultural venue. The Portobello Library provides essential resources and a hub for learning, while the Portobello Swim Centre, with its historic Turkish baths, remains a cherished recreational facility.

🚧 Structures of the Past

Over its long history, Portobello has seen the rise and fall of various structures that once defined its character. Among the notable demolished buildings are the Portobello Open Air Pool, a popular attraction in its time, and the Portobello Power Station, which dominated the western end of the beach for decades. The Portobello Marine Gardens, an ambitious leisure complex, and the Portobello Railway Station, which provided vital transport links, are also part of the town's architectural memory, their sites now repurposed or redeveloped.

🏛️ The Town Hall Legacy

The history of Portobello's town halls reflects its journey from an independent burgh to an integrated part of Edinburgh. The first purpose-built hall (1862) is now the Baptist Church, and its successor (1877) became the Portobello Police Station. The current Portobello Town Hall, opened in 1914, was a direct outcome of the 1895 Edinburgh Extension Act. After a period of closure for repairs, this significant civic building has been revitalized through a community buyout and substantial investment, ensuring its continued role as a central gathering place for the community.

📜 References